Editor’s pick — Accessory quick take: key highlight (movement/specs for watches, materials/finish, limited run, pricing tier) in 1–2 lines.

What We Know
Few young brands in the watch space have made such a mark so quickly as Berneron. The Neuchâtel, Switzerland-based firm, founded and led by designer Sylvain Berneron, swivelled heads, while winning the attention of influential collectors who snapped open their wallets and quickly snapped up all allocations of his first two asymmetrical Mirage time-only watches, featuring a full gold proprietary movement that debuted in 2023.
For Berneron’s next collection, the brand is taking a decidedly more complex and weighty direction. While there have been photos and discussions of the project online, Berneron is now officially unveiling fulsome details of the Quantième Annuel—two platinum-cased calendar watches that are full of novel innovation in both design and mechanics.

We first saw photos and renderings of the new collection a few months ago. We had the opportunity to examine a 3D-printed case, as well as a plastic model of the movement, at Berneron’s new atelier in Neuchâtel. However, we are only now seeing photos of the complete watch, and we’ll get to see it in person this week at Geneva Watch Days. Bear in mind, however, that Berneron has yet to produce a prototype with a working movement for the new timepiece. That’s unlikely to happen until later this year or next, when these watches are scheduled to start delivery in October 2026. We will certainly endeavor to have video and photos of the working movement as soon as possible. Until then, here’s what we know.
The first Quantième of the collection is an annual calendar that Berneron says aims to reduce the complexity and challenges often associated with setting and maintaining such complicated timepieces. It features a unique and novel dial structure, allowing for the reading of time – hours, minutes, and seconds – from top to bottom, while the date is read from left to right, with the day, date, and month. With enlarged apertures to enhance readability, particularly for the jumping hour complication at the top, there are two lacquered 18-karat gold base-plate dial versions, one in silver and the other in black.

The proprietary caliber 595 utilizes what Berneron calls a ‘cross architecture’ design with two regulators, one for the calendar functions and the other for the time. The movement powers four instantaneous jumping apertures, two swiping hands, and a retrograde date. It requires two barrels and a construction that stores energy in four different places to power all the jumps at various times or all at once at midnight on Dec. 31.

The movement design also simplifies the setting process with the time and date set like a conventional watch with positions on the stainless steel crown, while the month and day of the week are set with two pushers on the corresponding bottom edges of the case. Berneron says the relatively simple system makes setting the watch stress-free and prevents costly or time-consuming setting mistakes.

Another novel design aspect is the case construction, which is 38 millimeters in diameter and just 10 millimeters thick, while still boasting 30 meters of water resistance. Made of weighty platinum, it features a steel layer designed to absorb the wear and scratches that might otherwise mark the softer precious metal. Made up of six components, the steel layer can be removed and replaced, thereby preserving the condition of the platinum case. The removable steel layer will account for approximately 15% of the case’s mass, with the heavy platinum comprising the remainder. On the backside, revealed through sapphire glass beneath the hinged officer’s caseback, are the visible movement finishing techniques, including anglage, guillochage, cerclage, and black polishing.

As with previous models, Berneron plans to produce 24 examples of each of the two colors of the Quantiéme Annuel per year. The price is CHF 120,000 for those who secure an allocation for 2026, and it will rise to CHF 130,000 in 2027 and CHF 140,000 in 2028. Like the two Mirage models, it plans to produce 48 total pieces of the model per year for a decade.
What We Think

Berneron has certainly flipped the script for his second collection, focusing on refining the complicated calendar with a unique and more user-friendly version while avoiding criticism that he’s a one-trick pony, following the eye-catching design elegance of the uniquely shaped precious metal movement Mirage. The Quantiéme places the young brand in competition with marques that have been around for centuries and have been making complicated calendar watches for decades.
While a working movement prototype has yet to be produced, the movement design itself is thought-provoking and seemingly ingenious. The dial layout and case concept, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 45 millimeters, should be easily wearable, pushing the bounds of innovation. Sylvain Berneron has informed us that he has already received several orders for the new piece, and there’s little doubt that many of the most influential collectors will be clamoring this week to spend a moment with the new watch.
The Basics
Brand: Berneron
Model: Quantième Annuel
Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 10mm
Case Material: Platinum and steel
Dial Color: Black and Silver
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: 20-16 mm Barenia leather

The Movement
Caliber: 595
Functions: Annual calendar & Jumping hour. Correction once per year on Feb. 28
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 5.95mm
Power Reserve: 100 hours / 4 days
Winding: Manual winding
Frequency: 21,600 VpH (3Hz)
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Construction 18k gold (main plate & bridges) 476 components & 33 jewels
Pricing & Availability
Price: Pre 2026 – CHF 120,000 / 2027 CHF 130,000 / 2028 CHF 140,000
Availability: 24 pieces of each dial color per year for ten years.
Limited Edition: No, but limited production
For more, click here.
Source: www.hodinkee.com — original article published 2025-09-01 12:39:00.
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