Introducing: The Bulgari Bronzo GMT And Chronograph

Editor’s pick — Accessory quick take: key highlight (movement/specs for watches, materials/finish, limited run, pricing tier) in 1–2 lines.

What We Know

The Bulgari Aluminium is a stalwart in the Italian jewelry maker’s collection of Swiss-made watches. Inspired by the ‘Bulgari Bulgari’ from 1975, and worn memorably by way of a Diagono quartz-powered chronograph iteration by Al Pacino in ‘Heat,‘ the Aluminium was born in 1998 and reintroduced in 2020 in a mechanical version that served to add variety and approachability to the company’s watch offerings while retaining the not-so-subtle double branding on the bezel. For 2025, a pair of new models in bronze aim to bring a fresh take to the sport watch line, with a metal that evolves and changes with the wearer over time.

Both models continue the design codes established by the Bulgari Bulgari back in the ’70s. Like the original, both Bronzos come on a rubber strap, and they feature a rubber bezel prominently announcing the brand name twice for good measure. They retain the distinct, functional case silhouette, now in a sandblasted bronze, in a bid to combine elegance with usability, which will develop an individual patina with each wear. A deep matte black dial on each contrasts with rose gold-plated hands and the case alloy. Both rubber straps feature a matching buckle and hook-and-loop closure.

First up is the Bronzo GMT. The case measures 40 millimeters in diameter and features a black lacquered 24-hour scale, allowing the GMT hand to track another time zone. The automatic caliber B192 movement has a 50-hour power reserve. This is a ‘caller’ travel watch, meaning the GMT hand, also plated in rose gold with a lumed triangle tip, can be adjusted separately via the black titanium crown. In addition to the 24-hour scale, the dial features Arabic numerals at 12 o’clock and six. It has a dial-matched date window at 3 o’clock. The Bronzo GMT is priced at €5200.

The Bronzo Chronograph is slightly wider in diameter at 41 millimeters. Utilizing a black sandblasted titanium crown and pushers coated with a DLC treatment. The dial is also matte black, as are the three subdials, distinguished by a white tachymeter scale that frames counter rings with a 60-second counter at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, all in the same shade. The dial-matched date window is positioned at 4:30. The chronograph is powered by the automatic B381 caliber movement, which features a 42-hour power reserve. Bulgari states that the Bronzo Chronograph is priced at €6,500. 

What We Think

For those who appreciate the glam attitude of the Bulgari Bulgari and the aluminium, these new bronze iterations offer a more subdued way to wear it. And they offer buyers a choice of classic complications, one designed for travelers and the other for those who want a watch to time their everyday pursuits. The prices in euros aren’t cheap but seem reasonable for a Swiss-made, automatic movement with complications, metal sport watch from a high-end Italian jewelry brand. Bulgari certainly isn’t the first to use bronze as a case material, with fellow Italian marque Panerai paving the way long ago with its own Bronzo line. Still, it’s a bold move to make a watch in bronze for a model that gets its name from another alloy. Classic Bulgari times two.

The Basics

Brand: Bulgari
Model: Bronzo GMT and Bronzo Chronograph
Reference Number: 104241 and 104242
Diameter: 40mm and 41mm
Thickness:  9.7mm and 12.35mm
Case Material: Bronze
Dial Color: Black
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands, counter hands and GMT hand
Water Resistance: 10 ATM (100 meters) both
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber with metal hook and loop closure

The Movement

Caliber: B192 and B382
Functions: Hours,
minutes, central seconds, GMT and date / hours,
minutes, small seconds chronograph and date.
Diameter:
Thickness: 4.1mm and 6.9mm
Power Reserve: 50 hours and 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
(4Hz)
Chronometer Certified: No

Pricing & Availability

Price: €5200 and €6500
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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Source: www.hodinkee.comoriginal article published 2025-09-04 07:00:01.

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