Editor’s pick — Accessory quick take: key highlight (movement/specs for watches, materials/finish, limited run, pricing tier) in 1–2 lines.

For Geneva Watch Days, TAG Heuer has just unveiled a new bit of watchmaking technology that the brand says will be revolutionary for the future of mechanical watchmaking. This new tech, dubbed the TH-Carbonspring, was developed in-house at the TAG Heuer Lab. It is essentially a carbon oscillator designed to improve upon past designs by leveraging carbon’s properties to deliver several promised benefits.

Launched within the recognizable forms of two of the brand’s best-known models, the Monaco and the Carrera, the TH-Carbonspring is a carbon hairspring that is covered by a total of four patents, one of which has already been granted. The outcome is an oscillator that offers three specific benefits as described by TAG Heuer, including anti-magnetism, shock resistance, and the downstream benefits of the lightweight nature of carbon fibre (which could conceivably improve timekeeping vs. a heavier component).
While TAG Heuer has not yet shared any specific metrics surrounding these benefits compared to other conventional hairspring setups (be it steel, alloys like Nivarox, or the more modern silicon used by Rolex, Omega, Patek, and of course, Ulysse Nardin), they have been able to industrialize the technology to the point of including it in a pair of 50-piece limited editions that are backed by a five-year warranty. While silicon is already amagnetic, I’m very interested to see some specs comparing this novel carbon solution against silicon for shock resistance and timekeeping performance, especially given the somewhat brittle nature of silicon.

It’s been nearly 25 years since Ulysse Nardin launched the Freak, which was the first commercial watch to have silicon parts in the movement, and the TAG Heuer Lab (formerly the TAG Heuer Institute) has spent the last decade working on the next step in materials evolution for the hairspring. While we’re eagerly waiting for more data on how the carbon structure can improve on the conventional oscillator, it’s always exciting to get a glimpse into the R&D side of the business. As more information becomes available, we’ll be sure to expand upon this novel story.
That said, this is Geneva Watch Days, so let’s take a look at the two LEs that will feature this brand-new tech from TAG Heuer.
The Tag Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring
The first of the two TH-Carbonspring limited edition models is a Monaco (ref. CBL5190.FT6313) that has a 39mm case made of black forged carbon with matching carbon buttons and crown. Thickness comes in at 14.1mm, and the lug-to-lug is 47.4mm, along with a water resistance of 100 meters. That carbon case (and the trick carbon oscillator) is matched by a black carbon dial and white hands with a Super-LumiNova treatment.



Ticking inside, we find the TH20-60 Flyback Chronograph movement replete with the TH-Carbonspring componentry. The movement is COSC certified and follows the TH20 format with a rate of 4 Hz and 80 hours of power reserve. This extra-carbon edition is limited to just 50 pieces, and I have to say that I love how the modern look of the carbon blends with the distinctive shape and quirky dial layout of the Monaco. TAG says that the watch will be available by December of this year with a price tag of CHF 17,000.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring
Rounding out this carbon-clad pair of LEs is the Carrera example, which features a 44mm black forged carbon case with matching treatments for the bezel, crown, and pushers. Thickness is listed at 15.4mm with a lug-to-lug of 49.7mm. The caseback is rendered in grade 2 titanium with a sandblasted DLC finish. As with the Monaco, the dial is also black carbon with luminous white markings and hands, but here we find an engraved spiral texturing and the aperture for the flying tourbillon.

Given the added complication of the tourbillon, the movement in play here is the TH-Carbonspring-equipped TH20-61. It’s COSC certified, supports the chronograph and the tourbillon, and ticks at 4 Hz with a power reserve of 65 hours. As with the Monaco variant, water resistance is 100 meters.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring comes on a black rubber strap with a signed titanium folding clasp. Availability is listed for Q1 2026 at a retail price of CHF 40,000.
Source: www.hodinkee.com — original article published 2025-09-04 07:00:01.
Read the full story on www.hodinkee.com → [source_url]