Introducing: The Petermann Bédat 1825 — Same Great Watchmaking, New Design

What We Know

There’s been a bit of a renaissance in demand for really well-crafted, intelligently considered three-hand watches from independent watchmakers. The success of some of the best in the space (including Rexhep Rexhepi) has hinged on a pivot toward classically minded three-hand watches that distilled their abilities into a compact, wearable form. Today, Petermann Bédat has launched their own effort in the familiar aesthetic. After two strong releases showing the pair’s technical ability, Petermann Bédat’s new ref. 1825 has a more classic aesthetic that should bring new customers to the brand.

Measuring 38mm by 10.15mm and in a rose gold case, the watch looks quite well-sized, with a case design that is anything but the somewhat boring standard that has sometimes invaded the young independent space. The watch features soldered lugs that add dimension to the case, along with a beautifully shaped, sloping midcase. It also establishes a new design language for the brand that will carry forward to future watches.

The dial is made in white gold by Olivier Vaucher. A laser-textured finish is applied directly to the gold surface, which is then covered by translucent green “grand feu” enamel. The 12 index and hour markers are polished and applied, while the rest of the dial is printed.

The movement inside was designed from the ground up by Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. There’s no trick of saying “in-house” and really having it be a modified gear train from an old tried-and-true movement (which seems to be increasingly common), nor is it proprietary for the brand but actually designed by another watchmaker (which also happens more and more lately). Making a “simple” three-hand movement unique is a challenge, so the team drew inspiration from pocket watches they restored in their workshop. The movement has a level of bridge symmetry based around a bell-shaped central steel bridge. The watch features oversized ruby bearings, a swan neck regulator, and what looks to be really nice hand finishing. In a first for the brand, all wheels are made in solid gold. The power reserve is 56 hours.

The watch is not a limited edition, but rather limited in production to the amount that can be made over the next four years. Deliveries will start in early 2026, and the price is CHF 75,000.

What We Think

I mentioned it earlier, but the introduction of a three-hand movement for a previously highly complicated brand is generally a point where the makers’ crafts finally reach a new audience. Hindsight is 20/20, and we can easily say that Rexhep Rexhepi was always doing great work with Akrivia, but the fact is that the introduction of the Chronomètre Contemporain was a watershed moment for him in the market. 

Petermann Bédat has made two outstanding watches with an incredible Split-Second chronograph and a deadbeat seconds release. There’s no doubt their skills far outstrip a time-only watch. But their open dials have probably kept a few collectors on the sidelines, waiting for something more classic.

That being said, sometimes getting what you want makes you appreciate what you missed. I love the look of the movement, but the sector-esque treatment reminds me of other watches at varying price points. That said, using Rexhep again as an example, a great time only will possibly draw more attention to the brand and drive demand for the entire collection, not just the new watch, just like Rexhep saw with Akrivia.

The Basics

Brand: Petermann Bédat
Model: Ref. 1825

Diameter: 38mm
Thickness: 10.15mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Dial Color: White gold plate, laser-textured finished, with translucent green “grand feu” enamel
Indexes: PB logo, minute, and second track are printed
Water Resistance: Not shared
Strap/Bracelet: Rose gold buckle on leather

The Movement

Caliber: Caliber 233 in-house movement, German silver main plate, and bridges
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Diameter: 30mm
Power Reserve: 56 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 vph
Jewels: 21
Additional Details: Stainless steel parts and solid gold wheels. Breguet overcoil balance spring

Pricing & Availability

Price: CHF 75,000
Availability: To be delivered over the next four years, starting early 2026
Limited Edition: Limited production based on that delivery timeline.

For more, click here.