Editor’s pick — Accessory quick take: key highlight (movement/specs for watches, materials/finish, limited run, pricing tier) in 1–2 lines.
They say that heavy is the head that wears the crown, but the gravitas of this particular coronet has always been greatly desired. While the industry has seen an appreciation of variety in what is viewed as collectible, the cult of Rolex has long been enduring. Only the other week, hundreds rejoiced over Rolex in New York for Rolliefest 2025, arguably the pinnacle of collector meet-ups, which attracted guests from all over the world. One of which was a man who had recently completed his own summer-long ode to Rolex, featuring over 200 vintage watches in an intimate exhibition space, available for private viewing only.
A handful of Bubblebacks is never a bad thing.
Based on the outskirts of Liverpool in northern England, long-time watch collector Mike Wood (@theoldwatchshop on Instagram) hosted his vintage Rolex showcase, aptly named ‘For Exhibition Only’. This two-month-long exhibition showcased hundreds of Rolex watches, accessories, trinkets, and everything in between – all part of his personal collection – for invited guests. From vitrines filled with rare treasures, relics crammed in every corner, vintage adverts on walls – even a watchmaker’s bench from a Rolex service center in the ’70s – this showcase is a reflection of Wood’s relentless pursuit in amassing all things Rolex.
‘Perpetually Yours’ for those who want to wear a Rolex on the wrist, and as a fragrance.
And when I say all, I mean it. We’re talking an endless collection of Rolex boxes over the decades, from Comex diving suits and a clock owned and used by the brand in their workshop, to a gift Hans Wilsdorf personally gave to a business partner. These museum-worthy items were humbly hidden behind an unassuming door in a seaside town three hours north of London.
“I’ve always been a collector first. Often I’d own a watch and then as I bought a slightly better example of that same watch, somehow that first example would get pushed to the back of the safe”, Wood shares with me.
Expect Bubblebacks, MilSubs, early Datejusts, gemset Day-Dates, and even Prisoner of War pieces. But for Wood, putting on this exhibition was never just about showing watches that otherwise spend their lives hidden away in safes and storage, nor was it about their horological significance.
A 1665 Mk 1 ‘Patent Pending’ double red Sea-Dweller from 1967, a 1665 MK II edition, along with a 1680 Red Submariner from 1971.
“A huge part of the pleasure in hosting this exhibition has been that many young collectors have come through and seen watches they have never seen in person before. The Bubblebacks, the Princes, the early little Oysters; I’ve found a lot of joy in explaining the story to them and fitting it into the context of Rolex as a brand.”
“I’m a bit of a dinosaur of a watch collector now, but educating those 20 or 30 years younger than me and letting them see and handle these watches has been a great side to the experience that I’ve enjoyed a lot”, says Wood.
Myriad Speedking examples.
There’s a lot to discover here, so I’ll let the images, a few more words from Mike, and the watches do the talking.
The Comex Corner didn’t just include watches but also a diving suit, original adverts, lighters, and footage of a dive.
A prime spot to overlook the exhibition from this Submariner-filled desk (more on this later).
Upon first entry into the exhibition, it was difficult to know exactly where to even start looking.
A perfectly named exhibition.
What takes your fancy, the stack of LV trunks converted to hold watches or the diving helmet?
There’s no better place to start than with the story of the Oyster, case told through five watches, starting with the first water-proof Rolex, the Silver ‘Submarine’ Hermetic, circa 1922.
Moving to a cushion-cased Oyster from 1926.
A gold Oyster from 1926, the reference Mercedes Gleitze wore around her neck during her English Channel swim.
Then on to an incredible gold Oyster cushion pocket watch.
And ending on the 11,000m resistant Deepsea Challenge from 2022. 100 years of water resistance from the Coronet right there.
“Many of the younger collectors who have visited have been wearing a modern Rolex Submariner, but through this line-up I’ve been able to build the story for them, guiding them through the lineage and how that watch came to be.”
This kit was produced by Rolex in the 70s to train new watchmakers and sales consultants on ‘The World Famous Oyster’ case.
This was a personal standout for me, the Rolex 3372 Bubbleback in 18ct from 1946 with a pink dial signed Verga. Its matching pink bracelet is also 18ct, and original. Mike tells me this was the favorite of most people who walked through the door.
‘750’
Check out how sharp that hallmark is.
“The number of people who’ve fallen in love with Bubblebacks, having never even seen or handled one, has been really eye-opening. From their appearance and variations of dials, the Bubblebacks have really fired people’s imaginations.”
Another favourite was this two-tone 3203 Bubbleback with hooded lugs and a dot dial from the late 1930s.
An incredible, clean Rolex Scientific 3009 with its original (and pristine) enamel dial, 1937.
“Always read the caseback.”
Three extremely special chronographs, a steel ‘Prisoner of War’ 3525 from 1942, the two-tone 3668 from 1944, and the pink gold 3525 from 1938.
The caseback of the 3525 in the middle says ‘Capt E. Blow’ and was owned by Captain Eric Blow, ANZAC P.O.W. during WWII.
Talk about timeless, this pink gold 3525 is nearly 100 years old and still looks incredible.
Mike’s Paul Newman reference 6239, which he wore to the auction of Paul Newman’s Paul Newman on the following strap.
A classic crocodile bund leather from James Cox, the original recipient of the watch, passed to him personally by Paul Newman.
This cigarette case in silver was gifted personally by Hans Wilsdorf to business partner and brother-in-law Alfred Davis for Christmas in 1917.
‘ALD’, talk about museum-worthy.
Pause to read, not before checking out Mike’s Rolex ring.
A 5513 Comex with a helium escape valve, 5514 Comex, and a 1665 Sea-Dweller with a Mk 1 ‘Pisani’ Comex logo.
Could the casebacks of Comex models be the coolest thing in Rolex sports models?
“I once went wreck diving off Muscat in Oman, swimming through a sunken shipwreck wearing a 5517. It felt very special going through the motions of setting a MilSub before the dive, going down, and seeing the watch on my wrist, as well as how the water distorts because of the curved plexiglass. It’s a silly experience to try and describe, but when you’re actually there and going through, it makes these watches feel a little bit more special.”
Checking the reference number confirms it, this MilSub is indeed a ‘5517’.
The two engraved casebacks of the ‘Patent Pending’ double red Sea-Dweller Submariners from 1967 from 1971, respectively.
It might not be a name you’re expecting to see here, but this Omega Ploprof is one of the prototypes given to Comex divers for rigorous testing.
‘PROTOTYPE 4-513’.
Another caseback, another COMEX.
This deployant isn’t one you’ll find on your run-of-the-mill Submariner…
Reference 1665 Sea-Dweller Pisani Comex from 1979.
Two of the rarest and most desirable Rolex collectibles, the Waterlily and Trident fish bowl display. Both were used during the 1960s to display the water-resistance of the Oyster case.
Mike sadly doesn’t own either of the Waterlily or Trident, but he does have this expressive Ocotopus wearing a diving helmet.
An original Rolex Air-King advert print stamp, arguably cooler than owning an original advert.
This clock was another piece that deserves to be in a museum, as it dates from 1870 and was acquired early on in Rolex’s history and used in their workshop as the master timepiece.
‘The Rolex Watch Company’.
Don’t worry, there are plenty of Explorers to see as well.
A moment for the Day-Dates.
The platinum Day-Date 118346 and its center link diamonds.
I never knew a Rolex ashtray was a need until this moment.
‘A Tribute To Mt. Everest’, the 6150 pre Explorer Precision is made by the strap it’s on as Mike has it signed by Edmund Hillary’s son Peter, Sherpa Tenzing Norgay’s son Jamling, and George Band (the youngest member of the original 1953 British expedition to Everest).
A Dominos Air-King in untouched condition, having come straight from the original owner.
Prince models are certainly overlooked – a special shoutout to that leopard print strap.
A very well weathered Doctor’s watch from the 1930s on an equally weathered strap.
Look closer at this reference 3359 Imperial from 1944 and how its expanding two-tone bracelet is inverted from convention, as the pink gold sits outside the steel center links.
A display of early Datejusts, along with Mike’s very first Rolex, the Datejust 16013.
The reference 6152/1 Panerai Luminor by Rolex dating from 1953 and issued to Italian commando divers in Egypt.
A WWII era Radiomir reference 3646 issued to Italian Navy frogmen.
It was easy to be distracted by the watches, but the accompanying accessories, such as this WWII era Panerai diver’s torch also deserves the limelight.
The Pan Am bags could only mean one thing.
The 1675, a 6542, or a 6542 but yellow gold with a lovely brown nipple dial – trying to pick one here is close to impossible.
The 1675 from 1963 with an underline dial.
An 18ct yellow gold GMT Master 1675 from 1977 with black nipple dial and a matching jubilee, what a look.
The crown guard-less 6542 with a Bakelite bezel.
The 6236 ‘Jean Claude Killy’, what an era of Rolex this was.
The Killy really is killer.
It might not be Rolex, but this Naviquartz Patek clock from the 70s/80s looked right at home.
A few Tudor watches and accessories have made their way into the collection, naturally.
To think these leather watch boxes are nearly 100 years old and have remained in such condition is remarkable.
A mini watchmaker’s desk…
On top of a watchmaker’s bench that came from the Rolex Service Center in London, circa 1970s.
Even the loupes Mike uses are Rolex.
A memorable Egyptian-themed retailer’s window display from the 1980s.
Have you ever seen a desk with a watch display set into it outside of a boutique?
“At some point, I suddenly realized I had 63 Submariners and thought it’s a bad number to end on, so I allowed myself to buy two more to get to 65, and then I could retire. But once I had 65 Submariners, I sold a load off and got it down to around 50, then gradually they started to come back again, and I bought a few more.”
A 5508, two 6536s, and a 6202 Monometer.
A 1953 Monometer 6202 with its gloss honeycomb dial paired with pencil hands and a lollipop seconds hand.
An army-issued 5517 MilSub from 1977.
An almighty trio: ’59 5512 MilSub with gloss gilt T-circle dial, the 5517 MilSub from 77, and an Omega Seamaster 300 British Royal Navy MilSub 165.024 from 1968.
What’s the collective noun for a group of Submariners? A flock? Or is it ‘gaggle’? Perhaps ‘herd’?
The reference 5508 Submariner from 1959 with the small crown and gloss gilt dial.
An underappreciated side of watches as a whole are the clasps and buckles, but the heavy taper on vintage Rolex clasps is always a treat to handle.
Of course, Mike still owns his first watch, a small Timex which he is wearing in the accompanying shot. You’ll notice that ‘Timex’ has been scratched out. He tells me he did this when he was younger and attempted to replace it with ‘Rolex’.
“I want a good watch.”
These original Rolex boxes are pieces of art in themselves.
A couple of 1655 Steve McQueen’s, because why have one when you can have two?
If you ever had any doubt about Mike’s passion, just check out his watch-themed tie collection.
An original Rolex cardboard box designed to contain parts, from the 1930s.
Mike had two choices when getting his first Rolex: either the Datejust 16013 or the Daytona 6263. At the time, he felt more connected to the Datejust, so that came home with him. It just took a few more decades to also get the Daytona in his collection.
The watch of choice for someone with a collection like this? A Tudor BB58 Bronze, often found throughout the day exactly like this, as Mike tried on certain pieces.
Thank you to Mike Wood for showing us just a snippet of his collection. If you’d like to see everything, click here to check it out in 3D.
Source: www.hodinkee.com — original article published 2025-10-20 17:00:00.
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