Auctions: Incredible Mystery Clocks, Breguet Watches for Royalty, And A Rare Set of Pateks At Sotheby’s And Christie’s Fall Geneva Auctions

Editor’s pick — Accessory quick take: key highlight (movement/specs for watches, materials/finish, limited run, pricing tier) in 1–2 lines.

We’re getting closer to the blockbuster fall auction week. Last week, we published an extremely in-depth preview of Phillips’ “Decade One” auction, which will likely dominate attention for this fall auction. But some solid auctions are being put on by the other houses. First, I want to cover a bit of surprising news that came out last week.

FP Journe FFC

Photo courtesy of Phillips.

Phillips has announced that their December New York sale will feature an F.P.Journe FFC, made expressly for the legendary filmmaker himself, Francis Ford Coppola. The FFC model came from Journe’s friendship with Coppola, who asked Journe if any watchmaker had ever used a hand and its fingers to signal the time. The resulting watch, with its creative display, has become one of the most in-demand pieces from Journe VIPs. But it’s pretty surprising to see Francis Ford Coppola selling his personal watch. 

FP Journe Resonance

Photo courtesy of Phillips.

He’s also selling a platinum F.P.Journe Chronomètre à Résonance (gifted to Coppola by his wife Eleanor in 2009) and a few other pieces. I’ve seen a strange number of negative comments online from people who, let’s be clear, have nothing to gain or lose by Coppola selling with a watch he owns and has every right to do with what he pleases. But François-Paul Journe has given his stamp of approval to the sale, saying, “I’m proud to fully support the sale of this watch through Phillips to fund the creation of his artistic masterpieces in filmmaking.”

But that auction comes later. First, we’ve got a few auctions happening in Geneva. So, without further ado, let’s look at the offerings.

Sotheby’s

We’ve got a double-header of a normal “Important Watches” sale and a thematic celebration of the 250th Anniversary of Breguet coming from Sotheby’s. Both will take place on November 9, with the Important Watches sale starting first, headlined by the Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster (which we wrote about previously) and the Cartier Shinto Shrine Gate Mystery Clock No. 6.

Mystery Clock

Photo courtesy Sotheby’s.

The Shinto Shrine clock is an incredible work of art. We say that a lot, but it’s really the case here. Between 1923 and 1925, Cartier and master clockmaker Maurice Coüet produced six monumental Pendules Portique Mystérieuses, each based on a different architectural form. From the beveled rock crystal ‘dial’ and diamond-set hands to the portico formed of two rock crystal columns with black enamel and gold-banded bases and capitals, and a hanging suspended clock in the torii Shinto Shrine, this is just remarkable. The estimate for the lot is CHF 3,000,000 to CHF 5,000,000. I don’t recall the last time I saw a clock with that estimate, and it feels well-deserved.

Patek 130 monopusher

The monopusher Patek ref. 130. Photo courtesy Sotheby’s.

Just like Phillips, Sotheby’s has a Wenger-cased first series Patek Philippe ref. 2499. The estimate is a bit higher than the competing watch (CHF 1,000,000 to CHF 2,000,000), which I think is more representative of Sotheby’s more reasonable estimate (versus Phillips often comically low ones, which they hope will entice bidding). If I were bidding (with unlimited funds), I’d be going for the unique Patek ref. 130 with a champagne dial, capped with Breguet numerals and featuring a single crown pusher. I haven’t seen it in person, but on paper, it’s one of the most compelling 130s I’ve seen. Also intriguing is the Cartier Bagnoire with a black dial.

Sotheby's

Photo courtesy Sotheby’s.

At the evening auction, Sotheby’s celebrates one of the most important names in watchmaking with “A Celebration of Breguet’s 250th Anniversary.” There are some incredibly historically important watches in this sale, with provenance that ranges from a clock made in 1968 by George Daniels for Breguet to a watch sold to His Majesty King George IV of Great Britain in 1827.

Breguet

Photo courtesy Sotheby’s.

The royal watch is second only to this piece, made in 1890, featuring a natural escapement, a four-minute tourbillon, a wind indicator, subsidiary seconds, and a piston-activated observation seconds (essentially an early chronograph). It was also the inspiration for a past (and recently revived) wristwatch from the brand. Three of Breguet’s eight four-minute tourbillons with natural escapements are in museums (including two in the L.A. Mayer Museum in Jerusalem). The estimate is CHF 350,000 to CHF 700,000.

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/a-celebration-of-breguets-250th-anniversary-ge2503/a-very-rare-stainless-steel-divers-wristwatch-with

Photo courtesy Sotheby’s.

The auction also has a number of really special pocket watches, too many to go through individually, but it’s incredibly difficult to find any of these watches, whether from Breguet or his workshop, at any other time, so it’s a great opportunity for someone who is historically-minded. There are also several special-order wristwatches for the more modern collector. 

Of course, there are a few of the brand’s iconic Type XX models, including one of two known with a gold bezel, delivered to Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet, and the rare Breguet Diver. But it’s hard to go wrong with a Breguet “Empire,” a watch that I always hoped I’d own someday.

Christie’s

The November 10 auction at Christie’s has more lots than Sotheby’s and is a bit more modern at the top end of the price range. Two of the top lots are unusual offerings from Richard Mille, unique pieces made for Boucheron and polo player Pablo MacDonough. Just like the Tiffany-signed Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711P, I wouldn’t say I have strong feelings about these lots, but I’m sure they’ll do quite well.

Breguet white gold 3970

A Patek Philippe ref. 3970 with Breguet numerals. Photo courtesy Christie’s.

Far more interesting is the second set of Patek ref. 3970 “Breguet” dials are coming up for auction and, like the first, are being split into four lots. Patek made four of these sets to celebrate the reopening of Patek Philippe’s Geneva Salons in November 2006, and after this sale, there may be only two sets left intact. These were definitely fan service for Patek collectors at the time, with exactly what you’d want from a Patek 3970, so I’ll be curious to see what they go for. These are sealed (and Christie’s notes that because of the exotic leather straps inside the seal, they’d have to be cut anyway to be exported). Each has an estimate of CHF 400,000 to CHF 600,000.

Rolex 6239

Rolex ref. 6239 Pulsations. Photo courtesy Christie’s.

At the same estimate range is a Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 with a pulsations dial, which comes from the original owner. It’s a deep cut reference for a Daytona collector and, assuming plenty get their hands on and give it a close study, I can imagine it going for big money. A brass-movement platinum F.P.Journe Chronomètre à Résonance, with a lot of patina on the dial and a Khanjar-signed Patek Nautilus for the Sultan of Oman, round out the top-end lots that jumped out to me. But there are plenty of other interesting options, like a Beyer-signed ref. 3800 Nautilus and a patinaed Rolex chronograph sold by Verga Milan. If you want some bling, you could either get a unique Royal Oak with rubies or a beautifully set square watch from AP with rubies and diamonds.

For more on Sotheby’s auction, visit their website. For more on the Sotheby’s “A Celebration of Breguet’s 250th Anniversary,” visit their website. For more on the Christie’s auction, visit their website.


Source: www.hodinkee.comoriginal article published 2025-10-31 15:00:00.

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