Hands-On: The Atelier Wen Inflection Pushes The Boundaries With A Full Tantalum Design And Grand Feu Enamel Dials

Remember when Atelier Wen launched the Ancestra this year, expanding into different areas of Chinese craftsmanship with hammered grand feu enamel dials at the brand’s highest price point yet? Well, Atelier Wen founders Robin Tallendier and Wilfred Buiron said “Hold my beer” for the brand’s second launch of the year, the Inflection. It is, per the brand, “the world’s very first non-limited, continuous collection of bracelet watches in full-tantalum.” The wording is very deliberate, as there are several very limited examples of tantalum bracelet watches that come to mind, including the brand’s own Perception design in 2024, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu piece unique for Only Watch 2024, and the tantalum Louis Vuitton Tambour spotted on the wrist of Jean Arnault. Audemars Piguet is known for several older Royal Oak examples in tantalum, though elements of the bracelets were made using different metals.

Tantalum is a notorious case metal, loved for its dense weight and dark, slightly blue hue, yet known to be extremely difficult to machine, much less finish. Tantalum bracelets are far and few between. But Atelier Wen has produced them before, with limited quantities of its older integrated bracelet design Perception. The Inflection builds upon this accomplishment by taking the Perception’s silhouette and adding significant refinement that makes tantalum finishing even more challenging but yields a more luxurious look and feel.

With a 40mm diameter, a thickness of 10.25mm, and a short 45mm lug-to-lug, the integrated bracelet design of the Inflection certainly feels familiar to those following Atelier Wen’s journey over the past few years. The design’s immediate standout is the sheer number of curved facets, as well as the contrasting elements on the titanium case and bracelet. In fact, there technically are no flat planes on the case and bracelet, which goes a long way toward separating the Inflection’s design from the many microbrand-designed integrated bracelets that tend to feel like they just come straight out of a CNC machine onto a wearer’s wrist. Small details like the concave bezel and ridged midcase add enough flair to keep everything interesting. When you factor that all of this is entirely rendered in tantalum, the effect is nothing short of impressive. I love the center links, especially on the bracelet, with fully polished curved surfaces. It’s just one of those elements that makes you remember how much effort goes into the execution of the Inflection.

The dial designs in vitreous grand feu enamel might also seem a bit familiar, as they are evolutions of the dial developed for the Ancestra. All three variants are commissioned by Atelier Wen to be made in the workshops of Beijing-based enameler Kong Lingjun, who produces enamel dials for other Chinese brands and offers his own works under the Koncise label. The Yōu model, in a vivid green fumé on top of a hand-hammered silver dial base, is considered the launch edition and is limited to 30 pieces. Two permanent variants are also launched: the Mò features a rich black grand feu enamel dial with gilt Arabic numerals and matching 5N red gold-plated hands, while the Yuān offers a midnight blue grand feu enamel dial with contrasting white Arabic numerals. Though I will always pick a green dial as my favorite in the bunch, the black enamel with its warm gilt numerals does offer an interesting warmth that contrasts with the cold blue hue of tantalum. It’s a combination I wouldn’t have thought would work, but it’s probably the most subtle of the three.

Though the use of tantalum is the most attention-grabbing element of the Inflection, something that I found equally interesting is the movement beating inside. Rather than the typical Sellita, La Joux-Perret, or Chinese caliber, Atelier Wen uses a customized Girard-Perregaux movement for the Inflection. It starts with the automatic Girard-Perregaux 03300 caliber, which then gets a completely different aesthetic overlay attributed to the curved, sweeping lines of wind motifs seen in historical Chinese paintings. The bridges have been redesigned in this concept, with some additional skeletonization to create these curved lines. Anglage is broad for a nice contrast, while laser-engraved curved striping continues the sweeping look. I love the execution of the skeletonized rotor, in rose gold-plated brass and tungsten. It’s a perfect look for the design. Beating away at 28,800 VpH, the customized GP03300 caliber is rated to -0/+10s per day and has a very standard power reserve of 48 hours.

On the wrist, the tantalum construction of the Inflection comes into full force. Though I’ve handled many tantalum watches in the past, there’s absolutely nothing that comes close to feeling a tantalum bracelet and case on the wrist. It is so, so heavy but an absolute joy to wear. And with such a heavy watch, fit is very important. Too big or too loose, and the watch will hang at the very end of your wrist onto your hand. The Inflection is well-sized as a sports watch, large enough in presence, yet with a lug-to-lug and bracelet downturn that works well even on small wrists like mine. I was thrilled when I found out that the green dial launch edition fit my wrist, and the curves of the Inflection case give an overall flowy feel that translates into a very reassuring fit. Dare I say that it feels significantly more comfortable than my 41mm Royal Oak?

What I’m also really happy to see on the Inflection is the inclusion of a toolless micro-adjust, activated by pressing the Atelier Wen logo button on the clasp. If Atelier Wen can fit this onto a tantalum bracelet, there really is no excuse for other brands using titanium or steel. But Atelier Wen has no choice but to step up here, as the Inflection is priced at a very significant $29,800 on the tantalum bracelet. There is an option for a sailcloth strap variant at $19,800, but to me, it would be inconceivable to purchase this without the epicness of the full tantalum bracelet. Just this year, with the Ancestra, an almost six-thousand-dollar price point seemed like an ambitious goal for the brand. Yet here we are, a few months later, with a watch that’s almost thirty thousand dollars.

Though many people will find it hard to ever spend haute horology money on what is still essentially a microbrand, I have to say that the Inflection remains a very impressive design. Perhaps Atelier Wen has created a watch targeted to the most niche of the niche when it comes to buyer demographics, but I actually think that the price seems fair here (even if it is, yes, quite high). 

Should you be looking for a modern full-tantalum watch, bracelet, and all, there isn’t really anything else in the market aside from a few modern bespoke executions, and to acquire those would be to spend well into the many six figures (or so I hear). With the additional craftsmanship of grand feu enameling, the Inflection packs quite a punch while offering a unique product that is an absolute blast to wear.

For more information, visit the Atelier Wen.