Introducing: The Universal Genève Tribute to Compax – Inspired By Nina Rindt And Powered By Vintage Movements

What We Know

Less than a year after introducing a trio of Polerouter Tribute watches, Universal Genève—now ramping up for its 2026 revival—is back with six new Tribute to Compax chronographs. The designs draw heavily from the 1960s Compax famously worn by Finnish model Nina Rindt, the late Formula 1 driver Jochen Rindt’s wife. From dial details to case materials to what’s inside, the brand has pulled out all the stops to honor one of the most important models in its history.

These six watches are divided into two sets, grouped as shown in the hero image and main image below. Each set comprises three watches, all with identical measurements of 36mm by 12.67mm, which are faithful recreations of the original case shape and approximate dimensions, right down to the 19mm lug width. This time, the cases are rendered in 18k white or rose gold, while still maintaining the traditional twisted lyre lugs and pump pushers, and have 50m of water resistance. The bezels are fixed and made of aluminum.

If you’re a traditionalist and prefer the “Nina” and “Evil Nina” variations with white dials and black subdials (or the reverse, also known as the “panda” and “reverse panda” dials), these options are available, but they are split across the different sets. Like the cases, the dials themselves go beyond standard brushed metal. Instead, the dials are done in grand feu enamel. The dials are matched with the case and handset as follows:

• White enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters, black varnished hour and minute hands, white varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand (Set 1)
• Black enamel dial with white enamel chronograph counters, red gold-plated hour and minute hands, black varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand (Set 1)
• Brown enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters, red gold-plated varnished hour and minute hands, red gold-plated counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand (Set 1)
• Black enamel dial with white enamel chronograph counters, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands, black varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand (Set 2)
• White enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters, black varnished hour and minute hands, white varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand (Set 2)
• Blue enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands, white varnished counter hands, and a red varnished chronograph seconds hand (Set 2)

Some of these dial variations are anything but traditional. In another surprising twist, the brand has diverged from its heritage again, this time putting a refurbished and restored Universal caliber 281 under the hood of these Compax chronographs. The original 1964-1967 Universal Compax watches were powered by the well-known Valjoux 72 movement, but Universal decided to bring all of this in-house. The hand-wound movement features a 36-hour power reserve and operates at 18,000 vph, displaying hours, minutes, small seconds, and a chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters.

Finally, a part of what made Rindt and her Universal Compax so recognizable was her choice of strap. The watch itself was a gift from Jochen to Nina, and one she seemed to really cherish, but she made it her own after spotting a Bund strap (like those worn by military pilots) in a shop window in Paris. A change of a strap made all the difference in the world as a fashion statement, and was bold and unusual for a woman at the time.

This time, Universal has gone the extra mile with the Bund strap, a possible foreshadowing of the brand’s direction in the upcoming years. They’ve tapped one of the world’s greatest leatherworkers, Satoru Hosai, to craft the straps. Hosai is well-known in his sphere of influence. He moved from Japan to Italy and eventually to Paris, where he worked for Hermès for eleven years before joining Moynat and then starting his own company in 2020. Hosai essentially works alone to produce around 25 bags a year, going so far as to make his own hardware. He is known to be meticulous and camera-shy, and the order book goes on for years. However, one thing he has never done before this collaboration is make watch straps. These are truly unique, bespoke pieces, meant to match their specific watch.

As previously mentioned, there are only two chances to get these watches from Universal Genève. You can register your interest by emailing the address listed at the bottom of this article or by visiting the brand’s website and completing the registration form. Each set will retail for CHF 135,000.

What We Think

This should be an exciting day for many Universal Genève fans. While this release doesn’t necessarily directly mirror the brand’s plans for future releases in 2026, it does offer some insight into the thought and care that Universal is bringing to its back catalog of iconic watches.

The “Nina Rindt” Compax is an interesting case study. The watch is immediately recognizable; many collectors will clamor for a vintage example, and it’s bold and stylish (thanks in no small part to Nina Rindt herself for the latter attribute). However, for some traditionalists, the fact that it used a Valjoux 72 movement was more of a signal that the watch was part of a downturn later in the brand’s life, as it moved away from its own stable of great chronograph movements.

With that in mind, the choice to source six vintage Universal caliber 281 movements and restore them for these watches is, in my opinion, a welcome one. However, it appears to be a one-time deal, as far as I can tell. The brand has given no indication in our meetings that they will lean on vintage movements going forward, but rather will push technically in their future releases. I also think that you can put aside any concerns about Universal relying on precious metals like this to build the backbone of their brand. These are special watches for a special release.

I actually saw these watches twice over the past nine months or so, as they underwent various iterations and improvements. The last time I saw them, they were under NDA and not available to be photographed. So while I do have thoughts about how they look and wear, I’ll save those until I see the final versions in Dubai in the coming weeks. You can expect another story then with my own pictures and Hands-On takes.

The Basics

Brand: Universal Genève
Model: Tribute to Compax
Reference Number: JU281121A1X1, RU281121B1X1, RU281121Q1X1, JU281121B1X1, RU281121A1X1 and JU281121C1X1

Diameter: 36mm
Thickness: 12.67 millimeters
Case Material: 18K white gold or 18K red gold
Dial Color:

Set 1: White enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters (black varnished hands); Black enamel dial with white enamel chronograph counters (red gold-plated hour and minute hands); Brown enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters (red gold-plated varnished hour and minute hands);

Set 2: Black enamel dial with white enamel chronograph counters (rhodium-plated hour and minute hands); White enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters (black varnished hour and minute hands); White enamel dial with black enamel chronograph counters (black varnished hour and minute hands)

Indexes: Printed
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Calfskin leather bund strap by Satoru Hosoi, with an 18K gold pin buckle matching the case; 19mm lug width

The Movement

Caliber: Original restored Universal Genève 281
Functions: Hour, minute, small second, second chrono, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
Diameter: 28.5mm
Thickness: 7.1mm
Power Reserve: 18,000 bph
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 36 hours
Additional Details: Cambered sapphire, glareproofed on both sides; Fixed aluminum with tachymeter scale

Pricing & Availability

Price: CHF 135,000
Availability and Limited Edition: Only two sets made, split up in the combinations pictured above, on request to the brand at [email protected] or on the brand’s website.

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