Introducing: The New Omega Constellation Observatory Collection, The First Two-Hand Design To Achieve Master Chronometer Certification

What We Know

Today, Omega brings back an iconic design language in a watch that also offers something entirely new, with nine models in the new Constellation Observatory collection entering the catalog. It’s the dressiest design we’ve seen from Omega in recent times, aside from its occasional revivals of a 37mm dress watch. Though most of the modern Omega Constellation line references the distinctive claws of the 80s-era Constellation Manhattans, the Constellation Observatory cases and dials pay homage to the dramatic angularity of the earlier Constellation designs from the 50s.

Proportions are undoubtedly modern, with a diameter of 39.4mm, case height of 12.23mm, and lug-to-lug of 47.2mm. The additional case size provides more room for those sharp, polished facets to shine in the light, in contrast to the limited brushing on the sides of the dog leg lugs and on parts of the caseback. The case is offered in a variety of metals with matching gold dials, with one model each in 18K Sedna, Canopus, and Moonshine Gold (the latter with an option of a matching 9-link brick-style bracelet). 

Platinum-Gold is yet another unique Omega alloy, combining platinum with a percentage of gold, this time paired with a Platinum-Gold dial PVD-coated in a “yellowish platinum” and an inversely brushed case compared to the others. In steel—Omega’s O-MEGASTEEL alloy, to be exact—four different dials are offered. Sunray brushed dials are available in green or navy, while the silver dial has a matte finish. The headliner of the steel models is the black dial, made of glossy ceramic, while still keeping the pie-pan shape for a compelling modern twist.

The dials on these models are of note, given the return of a highly stylized dodecagonal pie-pan design. Sure, the current production Globemasters have pie-pan dials, but nothing as aggressive in its decoration as these, thanks to prominent grooves on the pie pan’s faceted periphery, as well as sharp kite-form applied indices and a unique set of what I can only describe as stubby dauphine hands. Interestingly, the precious metal models have hand-turned guilloché grooves, while those on the steel-cased dials are stamped.

Behind the exhibition caseback is the Calibre 8915 or 8914, with the 8915 taking the rhodium-plated 8914 and adding  precious metal accents in the balance bridge and rotor. The Calibre 8915 is split into two finishes – “Luxe” and “Grand Luxe,” with the Platinum-Gold edition getting the Grand-Luxe Calibre 8915 with a rotor base in Sedna Gold and an Observatory medallion in white gold enammelled with aventurine glass and white opal enamel. Paired with the guilloché front, it’s a surprising amount of decorative handwork from the brand.

Most importantly, the 8914 and 8915 calibers are two-hand versions of Omega’s existing 89XX series movements. That would seem pretty standard fare, except that these watches are all METAS Master Chronometer certified, even though typical certification involves measuring the position of a watch’s seconds hand to gauge its precision. The Laboratoire de Précision, founded in 2023 by OMEGA as an independent certification body and certified by METAS for testing Master Chronometers and SAS for Chronometers, has created a new testing unit that relies on acoustic measurements and optical hand-tracking, without the need for a seconds hand, to certify each watch. As such, the new Constellation Observatory is the first watch to be fully measured and certified through the Laboratoire de Précision, and is also the first ever two-hand watch to achieve Master Chronometer certification.

The Omega Constellation Observatory is available at retailers now. The steel models are priced at $10,900, and the ceramic dial model at $12,200. The models in Sedna Gold and Moonshine Gold on a strap are priced at $37,900, Moonshine Gold on a bracelet is $59,100, Canopus Gold is $44,000, and the Platinum-Gold edition is priced at $57,800. 

What We Think

It’s about time the Constellation line got some love, and I have to say, I’m pleasantly surprised to see the visual direction it’s taking. In a collection where the Globemaster feels quite conservative in its styling and where the classic Constellations are all adorned with rounded claws at 9 and 3 o’clock, it’s nice to see dog-leg lugs and distinctive dials and handsets return to the brand. While the new Observatory design is in line with Omega’s recent obsession with shinier, more sharply faceted cases (as seen in last year’s Planet Ocean refresh), the design decisions for the Observatory feel strong in their references to an iconic era of the brand’s heritage. Everything feels deliberate here, and that’s great.

I’ll be going hands-on with these new watches as you’re reading this, so I’ll leave opinions on sizing for my experiences in person—coming soon. One nitpick I have, however, is why the fantastically executed precious metal (ceramic) dials all have their hallmarks engraved on the front. Sure, seeing AU750 tells you you’re looking at a solid gold dial, but what else tells you you have a solid gold dial? A solid gold dial. To me, it breaks the illusion of what is otherwise an absolutely show-stopping dial from Omega, one that would have felt timeless in the catalog otherwise. But should that bother you too much, you have a few options in stainless steel without. To Omega’s credit, I appreciate that the decoration of the metal dials on the steel variants is the same as that on the precious metal dials, just accomplished through a different process.

Omega continues to push upmarket, and the Constellation Observatory is certainly no exception, especially in regard to the precious metal models, though they seem to fall in line with the rest of the brand’s offerings—a Canopus Gold Moonwatch, for example, is priced about the same as the Canopus Gold Constellation Observatory, but here you get a hand-guilloché gold dial instead of a chronograph movement. Interestingly, as of today, a Lange 1 in platinum is actually slightly less expensive than this Constellation Observatory in Platinum-Gold.  It might not be the most apples-to-apples comparison based on spec sheets, but it’s undoubtedly a thought for the buyer who’s considering one of these as we start to look at a price point where haute horlogerie starts to show up in full force.

I suppose it’s very appropriate to have the new Constellation Observatory line mark something novel in the Master Chronometer testing standard, carrying the torch from the Constellation Globemaster, which was the first Master Chronometer-certified watch back in 2015. Though such improvements and innovations in the certification process might not be what moves the needle for someone in the market for a new watch, it’s good to know that these standards are constantly being evaluated and refined for the benefit of the entire industry. And, at the end of the day, I think these new Constellation Observatory models are quite attractive. For more on these new watches, as well as on the Laboratoire de Précision, stay tuned.

The Basics

Brand: Omega
Model: Constellation Observatory
Diameter: 39.4mm
Thickness: 12.23mm
Case Material: 18K Sedna Gold; 18K Canopus Gold; 18K Moonshine Gold; Platinum-Gold; O-MEGASTEEL
Dial Color: Various
Indexes: Applied
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or brick-style bracelet (only for Moonshine Gold model)

The Movement

Caliber: 8914 (for steel models); 8915 (for precious metal models)
Functions: Hours, minutes
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 VpH (3.5 Hz)
Jewels: 39
Chronometer Certified: Yes, Master Chronometer, tests certified by METAS

Pricing & Availability

Price: Starting at $10,900 for steel and $37,900 for precious-metal models.
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

For more, click here.