Introducing: The Desder D001, A New Brand In Collaboration With Mo Coppoletta and Luca Soprana

What We Know

In the watch space, there are a few names that crop up over and over again, partially from the fact that some people just have too many ideas to contain. Mo Coppoletta, who has designed watches for Bulgari and, most recently, Gagà Laboratorio, might be largely known for his tattooing and artwork, but he’s one of those names that has suddenly popped up over and over in the watch space. Now, he’s lent his design skills to encasing a new movement by talented watchmaker Luca Soprana, who, in addition to his engineering for other brands and his own namesake projects, took up the mantle of Derek Pratt’s work.

A far cry from the relatively traditional aesthetic of the Derek Pratt Remontoir d’Egalité, the new brand Desder (founded by two anonymous parties who involved Coppoletta and Soprana in the project) and the D001 draws inspiration from the teardrop designs of the 1920s and 1930s and Italian coachbuilders of the 1950s and 1960s. The result is a watch that is somewhat reminiscent of the MB&F HM4 and HM8, but taken to the extreme.

The first extreme is the size, with a 46mm by 24.8mm case made of Titanium Ti6Al4V Gr.5 and Stainless steel with massive sapphire crystals on the top of the case to view the movement and displays from multiple angles. Inside is the other extreme: a triple-axis tourbillon regulates the watch with jumping hour and rotating wandering minute displays visible with a “driver’s-style” layout on the side of the case, plus windows in the top of the displays to see the time without rotating your wrist.

It’s a striking design and one that combines horology with a thoughtful aesthetic. In addition to the watch’s digital display, it has a jumping hour and sweeping seconds, a GMT function, and a power reserve indicator. The watch runs at 3Hz, with a 45-hour power reserve. The case has a mix of brushed surfaces and high-polished chamfers, with a crown at the top of the case, extending the sweeping lines, and balancing the slightly “cornes de vache” lugs at the top as well.

The Desder D001 is being made as a bespoke timepiece, with each watch planned to be unique, which means the brand is not sharing pricing. There are only 6 planned examples for the D001 available for purchase.

What We Think

Not having seen the watch in person, it does look quite impressive. I think the thickness may make it a bit unwieldy for my personal taste, but I guess that’s what you get for leaning into the teardrop design and trying to house a triple-axis tourbillon (which certainly takes more space). The finishing does look quite nice (on the case at least, it’s hard to see the movement finishing), and the option to read the time in a relatively standard orientation, not just from the side, is another nice touch.

The Basics

Brand: Desder
Model: D001

Diameter: 46mm
Thickness: 24.8
Case Material: Titanium Ti6Al4V Gr.5 and Stainless steel
Dial Color: None
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Lizard leather strap

The Movement

Caliber: DSD_01
Functions: Digital display with jumping-hour and sweeping second; GMT function and power reserve; triple-axis tourbillon
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 3Hz
Jewels: 63
Chronometer Certified: No

Pricing & Availability

Price: Upon request
Limited Edition: Yes, 6 pieces

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