Introducing: Universal Genève Reimagines The Disco Volante And Dioramic With The Signature Timepieces Collection

What We Know

The Universal Genève back catalog is vast, varied, and deep. Beyond the better-known Tri-Compax and Polerouter models, there are dozens of uniquely shaped and boldly designed watches that were once part of the mighty brand’s product offerings. As part of its relaunch and repositioning as an ultra-luxury marque, Universal Genève is now revisiting that history with a new “Signature Timepieces” collection—a series of time-limited editions that bring historic models back in a more contemporary, high-watchmaking context.

To start, the brand is introducing two models, each offered in both steel and rose gold. The Dioramic Signature is a time-and-date watch with a strong focus on case design and material, while the Disco Volante Signature is a chronograph based on one of the brand’s more distinctive, oversized vintage shapes.

Let’s start with the Disco Volante. We’ve heard the nickname (which translates to ‘flying saucer’ in Italian) before, as it’s been used for plenty of other models with a similar large, round case shape and a material-heavy, smooth bezel. Here, the lugless design takes its inspiration from Uni-Compax models from the 1930s. Sized at 45 millimeters in diameter, it gives ample space to the stepped case and polished inner bezel, a signature element of the historic design.

And while 45 millimeters is certainly large in today’s era, where the trend is toward smaller watches, it should be noted that the new Disco Volante signature model is a full 10 millimeters smaller than some of the brand-era specific watches it’s based on, such as this vintage Oversized Stainless Steel Universal Genève chronograph, ref. 22504 from John Goldberger’s Instagram, dating from the late 1930s.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by goldberger (@goldberger)

Matching the case on the rose gold version, the grained texture dial is blue on the steel case offering, with both framed by applied round indexes and a tachymeter scale. The two sub-registers feature a running seconds counter on the left and a 30-minute counter on the right. The dial text is minimal with just the brand’s updated logo and name, as well as Uni-Compax below the center chronograph seconds hand.

The UG Disco Volante features squared-off pushers and a knurled crown that nests in the cutout stepped case. On the underside, the UG-200 column-wheel, vertical clutch, and automatic chronograph movement are visible through the sapphire open caseback. With 20mm-wide lugs and an alligator leather strap, the wearability of the large-diameter watch is enhanced by the lugless design, which offers a 45mm lug-to-lug measurement. The Disco Volante Signature is priced at CHF 44,100 in the rose gold version and CHF 25,500 in steel. 

The time and date Dioramic Signature, based on a 1956 watch called the Monodatic (later renamed the Dioramic), goes even further in putting case shape and design at the forefront. The concentric fluted bezel is the star here, lending presence beyond the 37mm case diameter and framing the black-lacquered dial on the rose gold model and the blue dial on the steel model, with trapeze-shaped applied indexes. 

There is no seconds hand, and that elevates the dress watch vibe of the piece. Below the 6 o’clock position on the dial, and on the fluted bezel, is a round cutout date window, a signature element of the case design, paired with its polished twisted lugs.

The steel version features a lacquered blue dial and a matching 18mm-wide alligator strap with a steel folding buckle, while the rose gold version features a brown alligator strap with a matching rose gold folding buckle. Both are powered by Universal Geneve’s in-house micro-rotor twin-barrel UG-110 movement that beats at 4Hz and provides 72 hours of power reserve. 

The Dioramic signature in rose gold is priced at CHF 40,425, while the steel version costs an even CHF 20,000.

What We Think

Whether in rose gold or steel, these are both statement pieces on the wrist. The case shapes and patterned bezels draw attention and frame the oversized dial of the chronograph, while bringing the eye directly into the smaller lacquered dial of the Dioramic. 

And while it would have been even bolder to have sized the Disco Volante at a massive 55 millimeters, the 45 millimeter diameter is still dramatic. It makes a strong point for a big-statement dial chronograph in the modern era. Meanwhile, the Dioramic is also smaller than the original, but gains further elegance and wearability in the new contemporary size.

At more than $40,000 each for the rose gold models and above $20,000 for the steel models, these watches are definitely priced in line with Universal Genève’s haute-luxury market positioning. The watches certainly fit the bill, and we’re looking forward to seeing them in the metal before their limited time availability runs its course.  

The Basics

Brand: Universal Genève
Model: Disco Volante signature edition, Dioramic signature edition
Reference Number: UGUC001 , UGUC002;  UGDI001 OR UGDI002

Diameter: 45mm, 37mm
Thickness: 12.78mm, 9.15mm
Case Material: Rose gold or stainless steel
Dial Color: Rose gold colored or blue, lacquered black or blue
Indexes: Applied rose gold colored or steel
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 10, 100 meters both.
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator in blue (stainless steel) brown or black (rose gold)

The Movement

Caliber: Universal Genève Manufacture Caliber UG-200 (Disco Volonte) Universal Genève Manufacture Caliber UG-110 (Dioramic)
Functions: Chronograph seconds, sixty seconds counter, thirty-minute, hours and minutes (Disco Volante) Hours, minutes, date (Dioramic)
Diameter: 30mm, 32mm
Thickness: 6.63mm, 3.8mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours, both
Winding: Automatic self-winding rotor, automatic micro-rotor
Frequency: 28,800 a/h or 4 hertz, both
Chronometer Certified: No

Pricing & Availability

Price: CHF 44,100, (rose gold) CHF 25,500 (steel) Disco Volonte; CHF 40,425 (rose gold) CHF 20,000 (steel) Dioramic
Availability: Now.
Limited Edition: time limited availability.

For more, click here.