Introducing: The Iconic Universal Genève Compax Returns, With The 'Nina Rindt' And Five Other Versions

What We Know

If you were to pick one model that defined Universal Genève, I’d argue the Compax is it. For all the love the Polerouter gets (and apologies to my Polerouter-loving friends), the UG name is synonymous with chronographs. Universal Genève was a pioneer in developing its own in-house chronograph movements, particularly during the 1930s to 1950s, and from the Compur, Uni-Compax, Tri-Compax, Medico-Compax, Film Compax, and more. But the Compax itself remained the undefeated icon.

The version of the Compax that UG chose to restart their brand with actually comes later in the brand’s history, when they had moved on from their in-house movements (in this watch, at least) to the manual-wind Valjoux 72 column-wheel chronograph movement. The larger watch, with a white dial and black subdials (a “panda” chronograph), was made an icon by an unexpected acolyte. Finnish model Nina Rindt wore the watch trackside at Formula One races, timing her husband Jochen Rindt’s laps. And now, the “Nina Rindt” is back, with a sunburst-finished dial, alongside five other versions of the Compax, with several improvements.

Inside the watch is a vastly updated movement, a new microrotor-wound automatic movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch, measuring only 6.63mm thick and running at 4 Hz, with a sizeable 72 hours of power reserve. That combines the brand’s history with microrotors and their chronograph accomplishments. The movement, which is visible through the display caseback, looks well-finished for the price (which we’ll get to soon), at least in the renderings. 

Another vintage-inspired option is the black-dialed “exotic”-style watch, with bright red chronograph hands. While the Nina Rindt comes on a Bund strap (like the one Rindt wore her watch on), this black dial version comes on a vintage-style Gay Frères-inspired stainless steel bracelet. These, alongside an 18k rose gold watch with a blue dial, all have engraved ceramic bezels with tachymeters and make up the Compax Prêt-à-Porter collection. The cases measure 39.5mm wide, 47.8mm lug-to-lug, and 12.45mm thick, and don’t feature screw-down crown but still offer 100m of water resistance.

For something more modern and maybe slightly more feminine, the same measurements and movement are available in a steel case, or two more 18k rose variations with brushed indigo (steel), sage green, or dry lavender (18k gold) lacquered dials with linen pattern and the “exotic” patterned outer edge.

All of these watches will be available starting today at Universal Genève’s retail partners. Prices start at CHF 15,500 (steel on strap) and CHF 17,000 (steel on bracelet), and go up to CHF 39,900 for models in 18k rose gold.

What We Think

This was a surprising way to launch the brand. I think we could have all expected a “Nina Rindt” or “Evil Nina” variation, but the black dial is an interesting touch of vintage inspiration, a watch that (to my knowledge) never actually was made in the 1960s. In that way, it’s good for UG to soft-launch the fact that they’re inspired by the past but not beholden to it. 

But if that was the soft launch, the hard launch of surprising variations came very quickly after. The Prêt-à-Porter collection is the most unusual launch the brand has ever seen (at least in my mind). These are certainly not watches UG would have made in the past, but the brand can’t rely solely on vintage collectors to build its successful business moving forward. Time will tell how these softer, pastel colors and unexpected dials will help the brand grow.

The Basics

Brand: Universal Genève
Model: Compax Prêt-à-Porter and Compax Capsule
Reference Number: UGCO001, UGCO002, UGCO004 (PaP) and UGCO005, UGCO006, UGCO007 (Capsule) 

Diameter: 39.5mm
Lug-to-Lug: 47.8mm
Thickness: 12.45mm
Case Material: Stainless steel or 18k rose gold with sapphire caseback
Dial Color: White, black, or midnight blue (18k rose gold case) lacquered with contrasting chronograph counters (PaP); Brushed indigo, sage green, or dry lavender lacquered with linen pattern (Capsule)
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova® luminescent indexes and hands
Water Resistance: 100m
Strap/Bracelet: Dark brown alligator leather bund strap with folding buckle (20/16 mm), stainless-steel 5-row bracelet with butterfly clasp, or midnight blue alligator strap with pin buckle (20/16 mm) (PaP); Brushed indigo, dry lavender or sage green leather strap with folding buckle (20/16 mm) (Capsule)

The Movement

Caliber: Universal Genève Manufacture Caliber UG-200
Functions: Hour, minute, running second, column-wheel, vertical clutch, 1/4th second, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 6.63mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Self-winding, ¾ microrotor, unidirectional with ball-bearing
Frequency: 4Hz
Jewels: 36
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Cambered sapphire, glareproofed on both sides

Pricing & Availability

Price: CHF 15,500 (Steel on Strap); CHF 17,000 (Steel on Bracelet), CHF 38,010 (18k rose) [Prêt-à-Porter]; CHF 18,500 (Steel blue dial), CHF 39,900 (18k gold pink or green dials)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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