Editor’s pick — Accessory quick take: key highlight (movement/specs for watches, materials/finish, limited run, pricing tier) in 1–2 lines.
I remember, not that long ago, when I was just a reader of Hodinkee and being blown away as I stumbled across this amazing photo report of “New York City’s Secret Vintage Rolex Meet-Up.” It was the first “Rolliefest” and I could barely comprehend it. Such a crazy collection of Rolex, all in one place, and in my city? It was impossible to believe, hard to imagine ever being invited, and the kind of thing I was glad to have a glimpse of from the outside.
A Tiffany-signed Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 from the meetup in 2019.
Today, I’m just over three years into my tenure at the “Big H,” and last weekend, I was lucky enough to attend my second Rolliefest. Yes, the exclusive, invite-only event, run by Geoff Hess (whose day job is Sotheby’s Global Head of Watches), continues to grow stronger than ever. No, it’s not all about Rolex. In fact, an hour into the second event, I realized I had barely taken a picture of a single Rolex.
From a ton of F.P.Journe to two Roger Smiths, some wild Patek Philippes, a bunch of Longines, and (of course) some Universal Genève, everything was on the table (literally). Collectors’ tastes, sentiments, and “what’s hot” have changed over the past year, but the passion and friendship remain the same, and that’s genuinely what Rolliefest (which specifically calls itself brand agnostic) is all about.
The gala dinner at Rolliefest 2023.
At the Rainbow Room in 2023.
Held every two years, Hess constantly endeavors to rise to the challenge to outdo himself each time. In 2023, the event was held with a gala dinner at the American Museum of Natural History, a brunch and “show-and-tell” at the Rainbow Room at Rockefeller Center, and a cocktail event at Manhattan Motorcars Porsche. How do you outdo that? Well, this is how.
Another legendary night for the “Met Gala of Watches.”
Across two days, Rolliefest hosted a dinner around the Temple of Dendur at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a brunch and gathering on the 102nd floor at One World Observatory, and a farewell cocktail at the Winter Garden in the recently reopened Waldorf Astoria Residences. But more importantly, the event continues to draw more and more collectors from diverse backgrounds, yet it remains a tight-knit community of friends and long-time acquaintances.
This isn’t an exhaustive documentation of every amazing watch at the event—for instance, there’s a Daytona ref. 6270 that I never got a chance to see (and a bunch of amazing watches the owners didn’t want photographed). But it should give you a taste of how incredible the event was. For privacy (and security), I didn’t mention too many names in the story. If you see yourself and your watch in a picture, feel free to drop a comment, and I can update the caption, if you like.
Roy Davidoff, Katrina Vrakas, and Morgan King
Eneuri Acosta with his burl wood Rolex Day-Date.
Erika, aka WatchMissGMT, with her Patek ref. 3800.
Every year, the group grows, and so if you’re like me and imagining a world where you might some day be one of the people to attend, don’t give up hope. But until then, I hope you find the same excitement and fascination in discovering, learning, and enjoying the pictures from the weekend.
Day 1: The Met Gala of Watches
Every part of the weekend was a carefully guarded secret, with people asked not to share photos until after everyone had left, for security reasons. But the first location was a stunner: the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Roy Davidoff took the “Rollie” part of Rolliefest seriously, bringing two Daytonas to the evening, including one with a Khanjar caseback (which we’ll see later).
A well-worn ref. 6541 Milgauss.
Adam Victor with an amazing Patek Philippe ref. 1415HU in pink, with a matching pink Patek Philippe-signed bracelet from the same year.
Inside and we were greeted by a cocktail hour in the main entry of The Met.
The esteemed Rolliefest host, Geoff Hess, was joined by a recognizable face, Mr. Ben Clymer, who was attending his first Rolliefest.
You never know who might have a Richard Mille 67-02 tucked up their sleeve.
Rich Lopez of Sotheby’s wearing a Rolex ref. 6085 “Dragon” cloisonné dial.
A really nice ref. 6262 Paul Newman Daytona and a yellow gold Le Mans on the wrist of Alex Lubin.
Christian Bangert, Steven Cohen, Taylor Woś, Fred Savage, and Drew Coblitz taking a selfie.
Rolex Paul Newman Daytona ref. 6241.
Some beautiful cocktail watches from Courtney Bachrach of @tinywristcheck and Taylor Woś
Eventually, we made our way through the north wing of the museum…
… and for those who have visited The Met, the eventual destination was obvious, but nevertheless exciting.
The Temple of Dendur was commissioned by Emperor Augustus in the 1st Century BCE to honor the goddess Isis and local deified brothers.
Gary Shteyngart was impressed.
The iconic “Owl” (Old Watch Lady) sextuple-stacking for dinner.
A Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II, Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisan, and Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar.
Not often do you get to put your gathering’s name on the wall of The Met.
Greg Wirtz and Adam Marelli, two good friends of mine and big F.P.Journe fans, but they weren’t the only ones rocking Journe this weekend.
As is tradition, Geoff Hess spoke to the gathered group about the power of community and friendship.
Morgan King recording the speech.
Morgan King did so many sets of card slight of hand sessions he ran out of cards.
Of course, you have to end dinner with some sweets and coffee, so how about a handful of mocha?
Brynn Wallner, founder of Dimepiece, reenacting all the posing that’s done on the steps of The Met.
Tariq Malik of Momentum Dubai and Roy Davidoff, half of the Davidoff Brothers, posing to say goodnight.
Day 2: Lunch in the Clouds
The next day, we were all asked to gather at 285 Fulton St. for an afternoon of lunch and watches in the clouds. Where?
Alllllll the way up there somewhere on the 102nd floor at One World Observatory.
To get in, you needed one of these. No, not a Rolex, but a necklace made by Katrina Vrakas for the attendees.
Security was important, so we had to go undercover. The sea was angry that day, my friends. Like an old man trying to send back soup at a deli.
Eventually, we made our way up and got to see the amazing 102nd-story view from One World Observatory.
I was immediately pulled aside by an Instagram friend who wanted to show me some Longines.
And these two beauties.
And this super interesting pink on pink rectangular Longines.
I stepped away to check out the view.
King Geezer himself, aka Mister Enthusiast, aka Phil Toledano, wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 3619.
Meanwhile, the King of WatchTok, Mike Nouveau with the tools of the trade.
Including a Cartier-signed Patek Philippe Ellipse.
Mark Rawlins wearing one of my all-time favorites, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Tuscan” dial in platinum ref. 25820PT.
A Lange 1 with a Mother of Pearl dial.
Not your average Omega Seamaster, but a military version.
By the time I returned back to where I left my equipment and the Longines, the crowd had quickly grown.
Phil Toledano, appreciating his own watches.
Rolex Jean-Claude Killy
How about this for a two watch collection? A First Series Patek Philippe ref. 3940…
… and a Heuer for Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer
Maybe the most unexpected watch of Rolliefest, an Alain Silberstein Krono Medio Saphir.
A Patek 3970 on the wrist of someone who wanted a closer look at another watch.
‘Old Watch Lady’ is back with a more reserved stack of a Jaeger-LeCoultre and a Midas.
A nice little Cartier Baignoire.
Eventually, the demand to share watches had outstripped space, and Geoff Hess suggested we move to the main room, where a large table was set up to lay out watches.
Doesn’t get much better than a tropical or salmon dial Royal Oak.
James Lamdin wearing a Movado Datron.
Andrea Parmegiani with the absolutely incredible Rolex Champs Elysée ref. 8651 with cloisonné enamel “Chimera” dial. The dial was made by the legendary Marguerite Koch who worked at Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères of Geneva.
Just look at that enamel work.
An interesting Universal Genève with a date window below the small dial. Not a true disco volante nor a jump hour, this is something else entirely.
A Universal Genève A. Cairelli Split-Second chronograph.
A super honest and well-loved Universal Genève Teal Tri-Compax, on the wrist of the son of the original owner.
A little double wrist action from @aircooltime with the Rolex GMT-Master and Patek Philippe ref. 1526.
He also had a Patek ref. 514 signed by the retailer Eberhard out of Milan
Always read the caseback.
The table started filling up and people were so curious that it was hard to even get in and look at anything.
So I kept skirting the boundaries where I saw a friend wearing an MB&F Legacy Machine 1. Might as well stick to modern watches here for a bit.
Mr. @alangejourney with his A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.
Wristcheck founder Austen Chu wearing his signature unique neo-vintage Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie.
An F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Ruthenium, in platinum and on bracelet.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Dubail ref. 110.049 on the wrist of the Geoff Hess.
The previous generation of white gold Rolex Daytona with meteorite dial.
The Rolex “Cermit” with ceramic bezel belonging to part-time watch and car lover and full-time amateur customization comedian Drew Coblitz.
He told me the whole point of buying this is just to engrave a goofy drawing of Kermit.
And to remind you to “Pop it” and “Lock it.”
Speaking of caseback engravings, here’s the Khanjar on Roy Davidoff’s watch.
One of the legends attending the event was Daryn Schnipper, Chairman Emeritus of the International Watch Division at Sotheby’s.
A Heuer Autavia with the “wings and wheels” Indianapolis Motor Speedway dial.
There were less Paul Newmans this year but still quite a few.
Adam Victor with an incredible L. Leroy & Cie. chronograph.
A really cool pair of Rolex Submariners, a 5517 and a 5513 “Explorer Dial.”
Eventually, Geoff Hess tried to get everyone to sit down so the waiters could serve lunch. Good luck getting people to walk away from looking at watches.
Erika, aka WatchMissGMT, again with her Patek ref. 3800.
Andrew Shear with his absolutely incredible, very early Patek Philippe ref. 96 in stainless steel, with long signature, and black bullet indices and hands. If there were a few watches I wish I could have walked away with from the event, this would have been high on the list.
A little Resonance double wrist from Kirill (aka @LunarOyster) with a Chronomètre à Résonance Boutique edition (left) and one of ten Chronomètre à Resonance with black mother of pearl dial.
The black mother of pearl dial really only comes out under direct light.
A little Kari Voutilainen action goes really well to complement the rest of the room.
Jason Gong wearing De Bethune.
I still took the chance to keep searching for cool watches to share.
Brynn Wallner with “daddy’s Datejust.”
Hard to go wrong with a yellow gold four-digit Daytona.
Or really any Daytona.
A very very tropical Rolex ref. 1016 Explorer.
At every place setting was a keychain and key. In the corner was a box with a Tudor Black Bay 54 locked inside. The caseback was engraved. I didn’t try my key (it was for a Toyota).
Bernhard Bulang from Bulang and Sons was the lucky winner.
He was wearing this square Universal.
Hey, I’ve written about this pair before. This time the watches belong to Greg Selch.
Another Universal, this one with a cloissoné dial for Saudi Arabia.
My buddy Greg Wirtz with my favorite Chronomètre à Résonance of all time, the newest version with salmon dial in rose gold. Don’t believe me? Just ask him. With that, let’s look at some salmon dials.
The super rare Patek Philippe ref. 5101P 10 Day Tourbillon
Here’s one of my favorite Calatravas, the ref. 3796SG. The display caseback on the SG was put in because Japanese customers (who loved the small size) wanted to be able to see the movements and the rest is history.
You know what, let’s get some more time-only Pateks in here.
Patek Philippe ref. 565 with salmon dial and Breguet numerals.
Now for something completely different, a Hamilton Khaki Field with a Land Rover-branded dial.
A Heuer Bundeswehr 3H chronograph.
What do you do when you have three Milsubs and one nato? Create the Rolex Milsub Worldtime, tracking three time zones.
I mean, if you really need another Nato…
This was an amazing collection of military-issued Porsche Design Chronograph 1s.
UAE Air Force-issued with the UAE roundel.
And one for the U.S. Air Force.
A Longines Wittnauer pilot’s watch.
Tariq Malik had the most incredible piece of history at the event, with the most full of full sets you could ever see. The centerpiece was a Rolex ref. 3548 with a lot of extras, including the custom bracelet.
The watch came with its box.
And military and other ID bracelets from the original Air Force officer
But it also came with military records, pints, bank notes for the pilot if they got caught behind enemy lines, service records, information, and newspaper articles about the original owner.
Anyone recognize this collection? Ignore the Day-Date in the bottom right, that snuck in there from Mr. A.
A Hodinkee-signed Tudor Black Bay 58
A Tiffany-signed Patek ref. 5170P
Two Roger Smith Series 1.
Here’s another super well-rounded collection that included two of my favorite watches from the weekend.
This IWC ref. The 325 Portugieser is super oversized at 42mm, made of stainless steel, with a black dial and Breguet numerals. Judging by what the owner told me, I believe it’s the watch that sold at Phillips in 2016. It also fits me perfectly.
A tropical Audemars Piguet ref. 5402 “C Series.”
The kicker was this two-tone dialed Vacheron Constantin ref. 4178 with the most amazing patina and oxidation on the case.
Look at that. It looks like an oil slick. This would be on my top five list as well.
Two outstanding chronographs, including a personal favorite reference, the Longines Sommatore Centrale, with a central minute counter.
Two Universal Uni-compax chronographs, including the author’s (on the right).
Tyler Vanes of Craft + Tailored with a Wyler chronograph he’d been hunting for years.
Raymond Milnarik of Oliver and Clarke with a yellow gold Movado M90 with Breguet numerals
Man, I love the Jean-Claude Killy.
A Rolex Submariner “Small Crown”
The new Titanium Rolex Yachtmaster
The ultra-rare Patek ref. 5271P with rubies.
Yes, that’s right, a Patek Cubitus made an appearance.
And a Nautilus, of course.
It was tough to watch the Ryder cup on Friday, but maybe tougher to have hope on Sunday.
A very fun Rolex ref. 6085 worn by Sotheby’s Jonathon Burford.
Similar vibes on Raymond Milnarik’s Universal Genève Polerouter.
But his has this unusual and cool frosting/spider dial effect.
Quintessential Ken Jacobs of “Wanna Buy A Watch?”
And a bit more Oysterquartz.
Vincent Brasesco, recently appointed as President of Breguet in the United States, shares some of their anniversary pieces and a neo-vintage perpetual calendar.
Chris Coe with a Hermés table clock.
A really cool Jaeger Asymetrique.
As is tradition, Rolliefest always has at least one panel.
But too much time not looking at watches makes Adam Golden sad, even if he has his little car to play with. Let’s finish strong.
You can always recognize Mr. A by the bracelets (and the cool watches).
An incredible tropical Rolex Day-Date with Eastern Arabic numerals, date, and day discs.
Audemars Piguet ref. 14802ST “Jubilee” Royal Oak.
Jesse Mack wearing a Patek Aquanaut
How about a Rolex Daytona in yellow gold?
Or one from a familiar wrist.
And last but not least, a Rolex Explorer ref. 6350 ‘Honeycomb’ dial.
Well, time to go back down.
Day 2: Goodbye in the Winter Garden
To round out our time together for 2025, we gathered at the Winter Garden at the private residences of the recently-reopened Waldorf Astoria.
A late “Ed White” Omega Speedmaster with blue “soliel” dial, belonging to Roy Davidoff.
A black galvanic gilt dial Rolex ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona” on the wrist of James Lamdin.
The party continued onto the 25th floor balcony, with great views of Park Avenue.
Speaking of amazing views, Adam Victor goes three for three on great watches with his 1970 Breguet complete calendar chronograph with Valjoux 88 movement.
A very tropical Eberhard Contograf.
A yellow gold Rolex Pre-Daytona ref. 6238.
Andrea Parmegiani taking in other sights.
A really nice Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542.
Bernhard Bulang, winner of the Tudor Black Bay 54 engraved with the Rolliefest logo, wearing his new prize Gianni Agnelli-style.
Fred Savage wearing a super honest Eterna Kontiki.
Tyler Vanes of Craft + Tailored thinking about some knowledge he’s about to drop.
The knowledge? It was about our shared opinion that white metal Day-Dates are the best.
Oh wait, there’s a new argument that just popped up. Amazing ref. 18308.
A crazy Rolex Disco Volante. I didn’t catch the reference number but I think it is a ref. 2947.
Alright, the guys are telling me we better wrap up, so it’s time to send us out with a few Daytonas.
Photographer extraordinare Chris Coe with a bit of yellow gold flex.
A sodalite and diamond dial white gold Rolex Daytona ref. 116519.
Rich Lopez of Sotheby’s wearing Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 nicknamed “Desert Eagle.” The dial features “Quraysh Hawk” with the UAE coat of arms. In a standing position, the hawk’s feet rest on top of the ruler of Dubai’s signature, Mohammed bin Rashid Al Makhtoum.
To round out the night, we have the original legend, and the new, starting with a Paul Newman Daytona.
… and ending on a white gold Rolex Daytona ‘Le Mans.’ Until next time, cheers from Rolliefest 2025!
Source: www.hodinkee.com — original article published 2025-09-30 17:00:00.
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