Editor’s pick — Accessory quick take: key highlight (movement/specs for watches, materials/finish, limited run, pricing tier) in 1–2 lines.
What We Know
When Cartier first designed the Santos in 1904 for Alberto Santos-Dumont, the challenge was dual: make a watch that was both practical in flight and elegant on the wrist. That balance — between function and refinement — has guided every subsequent version. As Pierre Ranieri, Cartier’s Image, Style and Heritage Director, told me: “In this object, in a very obvious manner, you have the two directions — practicality and elegance. That’s the source, and the source has endured because it has the capacity to evolve.”
The latest evolutions lean into that idea of contrast. The Santos de Cartier in titanium introduces a finish rarely seen at the maison: a fully bead-blasted matte case. It’s 43% lighter and harder than steel, with a muted anthracite tone accented by a black spinel crown. Cartier’s decision to emphasize texture over polish wasn’t accidental. As Ranieri put it, titanium opens “a door” to new possibilities, and this finish gives the watch both toughness and an elegance unique to the material.
Alongside it comes the Santos de Cartier with a black dial, which debuts Super-LumiNova in the line. The dial itself is divided into two treatments: a vertical satin finish inside the railway track and a sunray finish on the outer section. White Roman numerals and the railway track are coated with green-glowing Super-LumiNova, while sword-shaped hands receive the same treatment for proper low-light visibility.
The watches are powered by the automatic 1847 MC caliber, Cartier’s in-house movement, which features a 40-hour power reserve and a date function. It’s the same movement used across the current Santos collection.
Sized in the large 39.8mm × 9.3mm Santos case, the titanium with the white dial has a price of $11,500, while the steel model with the black/luminous dial comes in at $8,650. Both models are available via Cartier starting today, and the full specs are included below.
What We Think
Both references share a theme of contrast — matte versus polish, light versus dark, heritage codes versus new executions. Ranieri acknowledged this was deliberate: “On each of these novelties, playing with contrasts was aesthetically important to accentuate the bold and masculine side of these creations, and to differentiate them from the other Santos pieces.”
More than a century later, Cartier continues to utilize that same tension as a design engine. The titanium model feels more robust and industrial-looking, with a bead-blasted finish that’s unusually matte for Cartier — a deliberate departure from the brand’s usual polished aesthetic. That’s right, collectors should notice the lack of a polished bezel finish, which has been the main gripe for years in the Santos de Cartier. The black dial, meanwhile, extends the Santos into new territory with lume — not just a functional update but a way to heighten contrast, with fluorescent hands and markers glowing against a layered dial. Sitting alongside the first titanium Santos, this simple dial color change could come off as “pedestrian,” but need I remind you, this is Cartier’s most popular “sport” watch. And they’ve just leaned in further by applying luminous material to a black dial – the typical sport watch design code.
The Santos, like the Tank, is one of those foundational concepts: in this case, immediately recognizable by its square form and exposed screws. That clarity of design is what allows it to absorb treatments like bead-blasted titanium or luminous hands without ever losing the Santos identity. For now, both novelties are available only in the large case size (39.8mm × 9.3mm, water resistant to 100m).
Cartier says the decision reflects a focus on material experimentation, though a medium case size may follow in time, much as the smoky-dial Santos eventually expanded across formats. A Medium Santos de Cartier with a black dial would no doubt be a strong contender for future releases.
The Basics
Brand: Cartier
Model: Santos de Cartier Titanium LM; Santos de Cartier Black Dial LM
Reference Number: CRWSSA0089; CRWSSA0096
Diameter: 39.8 mm
Thickness: 9.38 mm
Case Material: Titanium (bead-blasted matte finish) for CRWSSA0089; Stainless steel (satin finish) for CRWSSA0096
Dial Color: Anthracite (Titanium); Black (half sunburst / half satin) with fluorescent Super-LumiNova® accents (Black Dial)
Indexes: Roman numerals
Lume: Yes — fluorescent Super-LumiNova® on hands (Black Dial version only)
Water Resistance: 100 m
Strap/Bracelet: Interchangeable bracelet and additional strap with Cartier’s QuickSwitch system
The Movement
Caliber: Cartier 1847 MC
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; date
Diameter: 25.6 mm
Thickness: 3.8 mm
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic, bi-directional
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 23
Chronometer Certified: No (not COSC, but factory regulated)
Additional Details: In-house automatic movement with paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus components and a shield made of soft iron to improve resistance to magnetic fields.
Pricing & Availability
Price: $11,500; $8,650
Availability: Available at Cartier boutiques nationwide beginning October 7th, 2025
Limited Edition: No
For more, click here.
Source: www.hodinkee.com — original article published 2025-10-06 23:27:42.
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