Introducing: Cleguer Debuts The Inspiration One With A Proprietary “Innate” Escapement

What We Know

Cleguer Horology is making its debut with the Inspiration One, a time-only watch that puts its technical ambitions front and center. Founded by watchmaking engineer Mathieu Cleguer, the brand is built around chronometry and movement architecture, with the Inspiration collection serving as a platform for exploring escapements, constant-force ideas, and power delivery.

From the outset, the watch is designed around depth and restraint. The architecture is layered, stepping down from the central seconds to the barrel bridge, then to the mainplate, creating a sense of verticality rather than a flat, open display. At 38.5mm by 12mm, the watch has an open construction that reveals key elements like the oversized 12.9mm balance wheel, the proprietary innate escapement (which we’ll discuss below), and the power reserve on the dial side, while leaving other components partially obscured.

That balance carries through to the back, where the gear train, ratchet-click system, and Maltese cross stopwork are visible. The mainplate and bridges are crafted from nickel silver with a mix of champagne and rhodium finishing—traditional materials used here to support a more contemporary layout.

At the center of the watch is what Cleguer calls the “innate escapement,” a rethinking of the natural escapement. The traditional natural escapement’s main limitation—its inability to self-start—is addressed by incorporating elements from the Fasoldt escapement. The result combines dual escape wheels with a tangential impulse delivered through a lever, aiming to retain the efficiency of the natural escapement while improving reliability in daily use.

Additionally, the integration of a stopwork mechanism atop the ratchet-click system is a rarely seen approach today. It limits the power reserve to 36 hours, which might seem like a drawback at first, but it’s for good reason, as it restricts the usable portion of the mainspring to reduce variation in torque and improve overall chronometric stability.

On the dial side, a decentered champlevé Grand Feu enamel subdial displays the hours and minutes, partially masking the complexity beneath. The elongated central seconds hand adds to that sense of scale and movement. The text on the front is kept to a minimum, with the brand name pushed to the inner case flank and the power reserve numerals doing most of the work, while the numbered edition, collection name, and jewel count are left to the reverse.

Color also plays a role in defining the watch, with a deep purple tone used on both the dial and leather strap. There are also subtle personal references, including a nod to Mathieu’s Breton heritage in the dial layout and the three-dot marker at 12 o’clock, which corresponds to the three key visible elements: the barrel, the dial, and the balance.

Production will continue in small batches of 12 across four additional case materials, with 20 movements reserved for bespoke commissions. The first release, the Inspiration One in titanium, is limited to 12 pieces—all of which are already allocated—with delivery scheduled for the second half of 2026. The next 12 will be released later in 2026 in yellow gold, priced at 95,300 CHF.

What We Think

I had the opportunity to see this watch in person two weeks ago and was very impressed. It’s an ambitious first release, both technically and visually. The innate escapement builds on historical ideas from the natural and Fasoldt escapements, but the specific execution (combining dual escape wheels with a self-starting, lever-delivered impulse) is not something you typically see today, and I commend Mathieu not only for taking it on but for executing it well.

Additionally, in a world that sometimes feels too brand-driven, I appreciate how Cleguer lets the engineering do the talking without being overly loud with the branding. Overall, it’s a very strong debut for Cleguer, a brand I look forward to hearing a lot more from in the years to come. 

The Basics

Brand: Cleguer Horology
Model: Inspiration One
Diameter: 38.5mm
Thickness: 12mm
Case Material: Titanium
Strap/Bracelet: Purple leather strap

The Movement

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power Reserve: 36 hours
Winding: Manually wound

Pricing & Availability

Price: 98,500 CHF, excluding tax
Availability: Later in 2026
Limited Edition: Yes

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