Introducing: Credor Makes Its First Watches And Wonders Appearance With Three Novelties (Live Pics)

What We Know

One of the most interesting revelations among the wave of brands joining Watches and Wonders this year is that Credor, the Japanese domestic brand under Seiko known for high-end handcrafted watches like the Eichi II, is entering the international market under its own name. It’s understandable, as, at least in the American market, Credor had always been looped in as a Grand Seiko-adjacent brand. It’s in no small part because both brands are largely made by shared talent, and the only way to purchase a new Credor is through a Grand Seiko boutique, despite Credors not being Grand Seikos.

But now, it’s clear that Seiko is positioning Credor more independently, finally coming to the show under its own name. And ahead of the show, Credor has announced three new models for the year — two high-end Goldfeather models, and a new color for the recently revived Credor Locomotive.

We’ll start with the most complicated new entry here, the Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition ref. GBCF997. As the name suggests, this dress watch combines an ultra-thin tourbillon caliber with a heavy dose of hand-craftsmanship, including hand-engraving on the dial and movement. The dial is subtle from afar, but a close look reveals its complexity. First, the two-part dial is given a soft sunray engraving, ensuring that the lines seamlessly transition from the center to the outer ring. Then, artisans use chisels on the dial for the delicate, straight-line engravings of the Roman numerals. Finally, the minute track features nanako engraving, with a dot for every minute. 

If that wasn’t enough, the engraving on the bridges of the ultra-thin tourbillon Caliber 6850 is even more eye-catching, and all accomplished by hand. Said Caliber 6850 is an impressive tourbillon caliber, with the carriage suspended dial side by a heat-blued bridge. Despite being 3.98mm thin, the caliber still holds a solid 60 hours of power reserve. It allows the Goldfeather Tourbillon to maintain a dress-watch proportion, with a diameter of 38.5mm and a thickness of only 8.6mm.

Limited to 25 pieces in platinum, the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition is priced at $215,000.

Up next is the Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition, and while it’s much less mechanically complex than the tourbillon, it offers yet another great example of Japanese dial artistry at its best. The watch starts with a urushi lacquer base on the dial, smoothly transitioning from black lacquer to a rich blue in the center. The many layers of lacquering and polishing achieve the final result, though the dial’s curvature makes it all the more difficult. Finally, the indices, Credor logo, and Goldfeather signature are executed in taka mai-e technique—painted with urushi lacquer then dusted with metallic powder. On this model, platinum powder is used and polished by traditional sea bream tooth tools.

It’s set in a platinum case, with a slim profile of 37.4mm in diameter and 8.1mm in height. Inside is the manually-wound Caliber 6890, a 1.98mm-tall ultra-thin caliber with a power reserve of 37 hours. Limited to 25 pieces, the Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition is priced at $47,500.

Last but not least is the certainly polarizing Gerald Genta-designed Credor Locomotive. Now in its third variation since the model’s revival two years ago, this new dial of ref. GCCR995 takes the hexagonal pattern seen with the previous green dial version, now with a “dawn blue” dial that the brand says is inspired by the signal light in train systems. You know, “locomotive” and all. Each hexagon is engraved with a striped pattern inside, with each one engraved with lines in different directions to achieve a unique look in the light. Inside the 38.8mm high-intensity titanium case is the automatic Caliber CR01 movement, with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s priced at $13,200.

What We Think

The emphasis on the lesser-known Goldfeather line is a strong message, given that most people who may have heard of Credor might have come to the brand through something like the Eichi II. While I’m surprised that the brand isn’t entering the show with a new version of that more talked-about watch, or at least a new color of porcelain dial, I think it’s very telling. This trio certainly shows off a wide range of watchmaking, from the machining and titanium work of the Locomotive to the ultra-thin tourbillon and artistry of the Goldfeather dials, and it’s certainly a message of Credor’s diversity.

Within the Seiko portfolio, I think Credor has an opportunity to establish itself as a master of ultra-thin luxury Japanese watchmaking on a global stage, in a way that Grand Seiko isn’t intended for, and I’ll certainly be staying tuned to see more from the brand.

The Basics

Brand: Credor
Model: Goldfeather Tourbillon; Goldfeather; Locomotive
Reference Number: GBCF997 (Tourbillon); GBBY967 (Urushi Lacquer Dial); GCCR995 (Locomotive)

Diameter: 38.6mm (Tourbillon); 37.4mm (Urushi); 38.8mm (Locomotive)
Thickness:  8.6mm (Tourbillon); 8.1mm (Urushi); 8.9mm (Locomotive)
Case Material: Platinum (Goldfeather models); High-intensity titanium (Locomotive)
Dial Color: Silver (Tourbillon); Black-Blue (Urushi); Dawn Blue (Locomotive)
Indexes: Various
Lume: Yes, on the Locomotive
Water Resistance: 3 bar for Goldfeather models; 10 bar for Locomotive
Strap/Bracelet: Strap on Goldfeather models; Titanium bracelet for Locomotive

Pricing & Availability

Price: $215,000 (Goldfeather Tourbillon); $47,000 (Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial); $13,200 (Locomotive)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Goldfeather models limited to 25 pieces each.

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