Introducing: The Universal Genève Cabriolet

What We Know

Universal Genève moves forward by looking back, reintroducing the Cabriolet nearly a century after its original 1933 debut (then known as the Ideo). That watch arrived at the height of the Art Deco movement, which is translated to today’s release—clean geometry, strong lines, and an emphasis on surface and typography that carries through all five new models. The new lineup is split into two parts: four pieces in the Prêt-à-Porter collection, and a single, more expressive Cabriolet Capsule.

The Prêt-à-Porter models cover a range of executions. There’s a stainless steel version with a blue dial on a nine-row bracelet, a white dial paired with a dark brown alligator strap, a black dial in 18k rose gold on a matching bracelet, and a more ornamental red dial framed by a diamond-set case on a ruby-red strap. All four feature a transparent caseback, though buyers can opt for something more personal—either engraved initials in Cassandre’s Bifur typeface (which is the typeface of the numerals on the dial) or a bespoke miniature painting.

The Cabriolet Capsule, dubbed the Cabriolet De Lempicka, leans further into the artistic side. Done in a velvet teal colorway with an 18k rose gold case, each example features a hand-painted miniature of Tamara de Lempicka’s work on the caseback, executed by miniaturist Isabelle Villa. The initial release is limited to 15 pieces, with three different artworks available, five in each of the three designs shown below.

At the center of it all is the case. Like the original, the Cabriolet uses a hinged, reversible construction—less about sliding and rotating like a Reverso, and more about opening, pivoting, and closing. The updated version stays faithful to that architecture while refining it, including a slightly concave caseback for better ergonomics.

The rectangular case frames vertically stacked numerals in that Cassandre style with a small seconds dial at six. Dimensions are consistent across the range: 24.2mm wide, 45mm lug-to-lug, and just 8mm thick, with 100 meters of water resistance.

Inside is the new Universal Genève caliber UG-111, a manually wound movement measuring just 3mm thick. It runs at 3 Hz with a variable-inertia balance and delivers a 72-hour power reserve. And, in case you need it, 100m of water resistance. 

Pricing starts at around $12,500 for the stainless steel, blue-dial model. The white dial in rose gold comes in at $32,977, while the diamond-set red dial is priced at $38,000. The black dial in rose gold on the bracelet jumps to $63,300. At the top of the range, and the only one limited in production, the fully set white gold Cabriolet Capsule—with the hand-painted caseback—lands at $64,500.

What We Think

It’s a testament to the strength of the original design that nearly a century later, the Cabriolet can return looking largely the same and still feel relevant and not out of place. One small detail I’ve always liked from the original is the rectangular seconds register, which mirrors the shape of the case. It could have been fun to see that carried through here, though the changes lean more fully into the Art Deco theme, especially with the more expressive numerals.

If I had to pick a favorite, it would be the black dial on the gold nine-row bracelet. If you’re going Art Deco, you might as well go all the way. We don’t exactly live in the Gatsby-era excess anymore—for better or worse—but that’s still where my mind goes, along with the Chrysler Building, and this one taps into that nicely.

I’m looking forward to seeing these in person next week in Geneva because, on paper, 45mm lug-to-lug for a rectangular watch feels large, but at just 8mm thick, it may balance out. It’ll be interesting to see how those proportions translate on the wrist—especially given how much of the appeal here comes down to scale. 

The Basics

Brand: Universal Genève
Model: Cabriolet

Reference Number: UGCA006, UGCA004, UGCA001, UGCA002 (Prêt-à-Porter); UGCC001 (Capsule)
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 8mm
Case Material: Stainless-steel, 18k rose gold or 18k rose gold set with 44 diamonds totaling 0.9 carats (Prêt-à-Porter), 18k red gold (Capsule)
Dial Color: Blue, red, white, or black (Prêt-à-Porter); teal (Capsule)
Indexes: Lacquered, inlaid Bifur-style numerals
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Stainless-steel or 18 k rose gold nine-row bracelet with butterfly clasp or rubis red or dark brown alligator leather strap with folding buckle (18/16 mm) (Prêt-à-Porter); teal alligator strap or nine-row bracelet with butterfly clasp (Capsule)

The Movement

Caliber: Universal Genève UG-111
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Diameter: 27 x 17.5mm
Thickness: 3mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Jewels: Not specified
Chronometer Certified: No

Pricing & Availability

Price: $12,500 – $64,500, depending on configuration
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Cabriolet Capsule limited to 15 pieces (5 per artwork); Prêt-à-Porter models are not limited

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