Introducing: The Universal Genève Relaunch Brings Back The Iconic Polerouter In Eleven Variants

What We Know

Today marks the much-anticipated, much-discussed official relaunch of Universal Genève, following its acquisition by the Breitling parent, Partners Group, back in 2023. And while we’ve already seen watches come from this new iteration of the brand, such as a trio of Polerouter Tribute watches and six Tribute to Compax chronographs, those weren’t commercial products, with refurbished vintage UG calibers, and felt more like a send-off to the Universal Genève of old.

Say hello to the Universal Genève of new, with a whole slew of models being introduced today. While my colleague Mark argues that the Compax chronographs are the core of the original brand, I think it’s safe to say that the mid-century Polerouter might be a more familiar name for a wider audience. If you need a primer on the cult of the Polerouter, here is a handy video from UG. 

It was one of the first watches I came across on Hodinkee when I started learning about vintage watches years ago, and for a good while was the de facto watch to recommend to anyone dipping their foot into that world. There is, of course, no coincidence that some of that appeal stems from the fact that the Polerouter (initially the Polarouter) was designed by the legendary Gérald Genta when he was just 23 years old.

Today’s revival of the legendary Polerouter comes in several variations. Many design cues are shared across the line and taken from the original inspiration, from the iconic twisted lugs to the crosshair on the dial and the outer fluted dial ring. Also shared across the line is the new UG-110 caliber, beating away in every single one of these new Polerouters. 

It is, in keeping with tradition, a microrotor movement, and despite its modern construction, it remains compact, with a diameter of 32mm and a height of 3.8mm. Beating away at 28,800 VpH and with a power reserve of 72 hours, it’s a promising caliber. However, reliability can’t really be judged until these start to reach the broader public.

So now onto the designs. The Polerouter collection is split into two lines—the Polerouter Prêt-à-Porter core line and the more trend- and fashion-oriented capsule editions. Five models belong to the core line: three in 39mm cases and two in 37mm cases, available in stainless steel or 18k rose gold. The 39mm models (with a height of 9.5mm) come with a blue or black dial for the steel case and a chocolate dial for the rose gold model. 

All three of the larger watches come with a date window, stylized in an asymmetrical trapezoid, like the way it used to be. The blue dial Polerouter in 39mm comes with a steel brick-style bracelet, though I imagine you could easily order one for the black dial version. The 37mm models (with a height of 9.35mm) are offered in a black dial with a steel case, and a mother-of-pearl dial with a diamond-set bezel in the rose gold case.

One of the most interesting visual elements of this modern Polerouter is the “dual-finished” dial, which uses the quadrants formed by the crosshair to create alternating quadrants in either circular brushing or radial sunray brushing. It’s an interesting treatment that keeps the dial dynamic in all lighting conditions, regardless of color.

Next up are the capsule editions, designed to be more distinctively creative and to certainly catch the tail end of the stone dial trend, with a few unusual interpretations of the Polerouter. Three Polerouter Hardstone models in 39mm offer stone dials for the center crosshair sections, with a steel case paired with Bull’s Eye, and two rose gold editions with either Lapis Lazuli or Tiger’s Eye. The Tiger’s Eye variant gets paired with a rose gold brick bracelet. Last but not least, three Polerouter Camaïeu models in 37mm pair diamond bezels with colorful crosshair dials.

A whole bunch of Polerouters means a whole bunch of prices. The steel Polerouter (in both sizes) is priced at CHF 14,000 and CHF 16,000 on the brick bracelet. The rose gold model with a white mother-of-pearl dial and diamond bezel is priced at CHF 34,000. The Polerouter Hardstone models are CHF 20,500 for the steel Bull’s Eye model, CHF 38,850 for the rose gold Lapis Lazuli model, and CHF 65,100 for the Tiger’s Eye model with a full brick bracelet. The Polerouter Camaïeu model in steel is CHF 17,000, while the toffee dial in rose gold is CHF 34,400, and the berry dial in rose gold is CHF 40,320.

What We Think

I think it’s safe to say that I, along with many others, will find the relaunch strategy and the model assortment very surprising. This new Universal Genéve is targeting a buyer with a significantly more contemporary taste. After all, among 11 new Polerouters, only a few feel close to the original spec of the Polerouter. The targeted appeal of these new watches seems to be the “twist,” rather than a faithful resurrection of the past—a juxtaposition of an iconic 50s Genta design, paired with a distinctly modern brand strategy and pricing. 

Though we would have all hoped for pricing more in line with the UG of the past, let’s be honest, I think we all knew that the brand was bound to be positioned in the high-end. It’ll be interesting to see how the buying public responds to the launch, and how the revived brand plays out within the group alongside Breitling and the future Gallet relaunch.

The Basics

Brand: Universal Genève
Model: Polerouter
Diameter: 39mm and 37mm
Thickness: 9.5mm (39mm); 9.35mm (37mm)
Case Material: Steel or 18k rose gold
Dial Color: Several
Indexes: Applied
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or brick bracelet in steel or rose gold

The Movement

Caliber: Universal Genève Manufacture Caliber UG-110
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Diameter: 32mm
Thickness: 3.8mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic microrotor
Frequency: 28,800 VpH
Chronometer Certified: No

Pricing & Availability

Price: Steel models start at CHF 14,000; Gold models start at CHF 34,000
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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