Introducing: An Old-School Richard Mille Returns With The RM 55-01

What We Know

Another brand not exhibiting at Watches and Wonders but stepping into the fray of releases (in the quiet, subtle way they do) is Richard Mille, which just launched three versions of the newly christened RM 55-01. Technically a new reference, but not completely new, the RM 55-01 is a manual-winding three-hand watch focused on stripped-down architecture and specs, but in an ultralight format.

The watch may look familiar. As far as I can tell, the Caliber RMUL4 has the same geartrain as that in the RM 055 (no surprise, given the name) “Bubba Watson” model, first released over 14 years ago, in 2012. The layout of the bridges has shifted, as has a bit of the microblasted, sanded, and treated black PVD coating on the grade 5 titanium baseplate, or it is treated with Titalyt (like used on the F.P. Journe élégante). The movement has two barrels in series to provide 55 hours of power reserve and smoother, more even torque, with a 4Hz balance and variable inertia.

There are three cases available for the new RM 55-01, the architecture and treatment of which seem to be the other main differentiator versus the past RM 055 models. You can choose between Carbon TPT (black), White Quartz TPT, or Grey Quartz TPT. For those not familiar, TPT stands for “Thin Ply Technology,” where tiny layers of material about 30 microns thick, separated and stacked at 45-degree angles, are impregnated with resin and then put under heat and pressure for extra strength. 

The cases measure 37.95mm by 10.75mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47.33mm. The case actually supports the movement without a casing ring, instead using a rubber chassis secured with titanium screws. It’s simple, but effective, as is the finishing and skeletonization here. The case is water resistant to 50m. No weight was given for the watch, but I would imagine it might be close to the fan-favorite RM 67-02. No retail price was shared either, but one online source lists it at CHF 155,000.

What We Think

I feel like most collectors (or people who live out being imaginary collectors in their mind) have at least one Richard Mille that they would like to own. For all the old-school vintage guys I hang out with, many have one early Richard Mille for the historical perspective, or a modern one to live out the comfort and hype that comes with an RM. 

For many, that watch is the RM 006, which broke Richard Mille into the ultra-light game and did so with a bang. Put me down as the person who imagines owning an RM 67-02, which I truly believe is one of the most comfortably-wearing watches on the planet. I’m not sure I’ll see this watch any time soon, but I’m curious how it compares to the 67-02. It seems to fill a similar niche but without the automatic winding, so it could be quite cool.

The Basics

Brand: Richard Mille
Model: RM 55-01

Diameter: 37.95mm
Lug-to-Lug: 47.3mm
Thickness: 10.75mm
Case Material: White or Grey Quartz TPT or Carbon TPT
Dial Color: Skeletonized with sandblasted grade 5 titanium bridges with grey electroplasma treating
Indexes: Upper flange in grade 5 titanium; index points filled with approved luminous material
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Fabric

The Movement

Caliber: RMUL4
Functions:  Hours, minutes, central seconds
Diameter: 31.25mm
Thickness: 3.46mm
Power Reserve: 55 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 4Hz
Jewels: 26
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: A casing ring is no longer used, and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed with titanium screws.

Pricing & Availability

Price: On request; reportedly ~CHF 155,000

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