Introducing: De Bethune DB25Vxs Silver Moon And DB28xs Dark Sand

What We Know

While not at Watches and Wonders this year, De Bethune was one of a number of brands jumping on the release bandwagon this week with a few new versions. Today, we’re taking a look at two new pieces from the brand. De Bethune’s DB25Vxs Silver Moon keeps some of the brand’s futuristic design with the skeletonized lugs, while DB28xs Dark Sand picks up where the brand’s DB28xs “Steel Wheels” left off. Let’s start with the slightly more traditional watch first.

The DB25Vxs Silver Moon trims the DB25L case size down to 40mm and changes the dial around a bit. It’s been 17 years since the DB25L came out, so it was time for an update. The watch features a mirrored blued-titanium surround with gold stars, drawing the eye to the mirror-polished steel and blued-titanium spherical moonphase at 12 o’clock, which is accurate to 1 day every 122 years. The domed outer track features printed, slightly dressy Breguet numerals and a minute track for the gold hour and minute hands (in Breguet style as well) while the central dial features a barleycorn guilloché. Inside the 40.6mm by 11.2mm mirror-polished grade 5 titanium case is a caliber running at 4Hz with a 6-day power reserve.

While a lot of my friends gravitate more toward that traditional aesthetic from De Bethune, my eyes immediately go for the more extreme De Bethunes, like the DB28xs Dark Sand, with the hinged lugs and (yes, somewhat divisive) arch design on the front. The DB28xs Dark Sand also has a 6-day power reserve, but is much more compact, with a matte anthracite zirconium case that’s only 38.7mm by 8mm thick and has the brand’s signature hinged lugs.

The rear of the watch is a bit boring, frankly, but it has a power-reserve indicator linked to the dual barrels for the long power reserve. But most of the action is on the front. The blued balance wheel ticks away; the delta bridge features a barleycorn guilloché, as on other models, but now in black. There are beveled, sandblasted, and polished edges, and tones range from deep black to a softer, matte grey. The accents, like the hands (and the jewels), and the pips for the 5-minute markers, are in a purple hue, giving the watch a cohesive and (yes, I’ll say it again) futuristic look.

As far as the press release indicates, none of these watches is limited, but De Bethune is still a small manufacturer, so production in general certainly is limited. The price for the DB25Vxs Silver Moon is $99,000, while the DB28xs Dark Sand is $115,000.

What We Think

Every time I look at De Bethune, I always kind of want one. The hinged lugs on something like a DB28xs make it one of the most versatile-wearing watches for a variety of wrist sizes. The aesthetic is not for everyone, but for someone with a relatively conservative personal style, I could legitimately see myself wearing a watch like this. The anthracite grey case is also far more wearable than the iconic “Kind of Blue” treatment I immediately associate with the brand, so points there. The prices always seem a bit high, but then I check the secondary market and see that on pieces like the DB28, the market is pretty strong, showing that De Bethune collectors don’t have any problem paying up for these watches. For all the rumors around the brand being for sale (or not), it seems that one of the biggest limitations for De Bethune is its production numbers.

The Basics

Brand: De Bethune
Model: DB25Vxs Silver Moon and DB28xs Dark Sand

Diameter: 40.6mm; 38.7mm
Thickness: 11.2mm; 8mm
Case Material: Polished grade 5 titanium; Matte anthracite zirconium
Dial Color: Silver-toned hand-guilloché barleycorn motif with moonphase surround in mirror and inlaid with white gold stars;
Indexes: Printed; None
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining with a pin buckle in grade 5 titanium; Pin buckle in matte anthracite zirconium

The Movement

Caliber: DB2105V5; DB2115V13
Functions: Hours, minutes, moonphase accurate to one day per 122 years; Hours, minutes, power reserve
Power Reserve: 6 days (both)
Winding: Manual (both)
Frequency: 28,800 vph (both)
Jewels: 27; 36
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Triple parachute shock-absorbing system on both

Pricing & Availability

Price: $99,000 (Silver Moon); $115,000

For more, click here.